Pazhaya Chala Street (‘ Palayachala ’ in old British maps) has a story to tell; a shimmering tale of the Tamil goldsmith community, who, with their unique customs and traditions, have enriched the cultural landscape of our city.
Ananthapuravarnanam , a thirteenth century composition, includes in its narrative, along with the description of the old city and the several temples and water bodies, a vivid portrayal of a market and the local goldsmiths engaged in their trade.
Today, old goldsmith communities can be still seen scattered around the Fort area. These traditional settlements, often termed as ‘Uru’ or ‘ Gramom’, were concentrated around the temples of their patron deity.
The ‘Mayil Achari’ family in Pazhaya Chala is one of the oldest and prominent families in the area. The ancestors of the family were originally based at Nalloor, near Suchindram temple. Later, they shifted to Thiruvananthapuram during the mid-eighteenth century.
Nilaverum Perumal Achari, a member of the Mayil Achari family, was a skilled goldsmith. Along with his family members, Achari established ‘Perumal & Sons, Trivandrum’, a workshop where gold and silver ornaments were designed and made.
In 1923, they participated in the Surat Industrial Exposition where their work was much admired. In 1931, Achari made the silver signature seal for the last King of erstwhile Travancore, Chithira Thirunal Bala Rama Varma.
Perumal Achari’s dexterity as a skilled artisan was perhaps overshadowed by his greater role as a leader of the traditional artisan community. R.S. Monian, the grandson of Perumal Achari and president of the Tamil Viswakarma Samuham says, “Based on linguistic differences, the Tamil goldsmith community claimed themselves to be different from the local Malayalam speaking artisans. Based on this argument, they strived for separate representation in the Sree Moolam Praja Sabha. According to the decision of the clan members, Perumal Achari was asked to represent the community and to present their demands in the Sabha. Perumal Achari was specially nominated to the Praja Sabha to speak for his people. He occupied the post for six months.”
Not far from the Fort is Kaithamukku, another abode of local goldsmiths. Among the many families in Kaithamukku, Vairakettu Manickam Achari of the ancient Vayalil family was an employee at the ‘chellam vaka’ ( place where gold and silver ornaments for the temple and the royal family were made and stored ) .
Manickam, the proprietor of M.M. Prince Jewellery, Fort, and the grandson of Manickam Achari says, “My grandfather was the head jeweller to Sree Moolam Thirunal Rama Varma (1885-1924), and his deftness in handling precious stones was acknowledged with the title ‘Vairakettu’.”
Achari served as appraiser to the Travancore government and was often consulted by the royals before they purchased precious stones.
Traditionally, the members of the goldsmith community lived in closely-knit groups. However, in modern times, the younger generation of the clan has abandoned their traditional profession.
This changing way of life creates concern for the elders. In olden days, the head of the Uru played a key role in settling domestic issues arising in the families. “Today, everything is slowly changing. We are trying to hold on to old traditions and customs, but it is doubtful for how long,” says Monian.
This write-up is based on an interview with R.S. Monian and Manickam.
(The author is a conservation architect and history buff)
