Long after being a beachwear staple, kaftans have emerged as a cherished favourite for modern day resort wear. A popular variant of the robe or a tunic, the kaftan has been constantly reinvented on Indian and international runways. The breezy silhouette of the garment has successfully resonated with millions of women around the world. Ironically, they were initially designed for men and first found their origin in 14th century Persia and have since been associated with a number of Middle Eastern cultures.
“Kaftan as a robe has historical roots in the ancient Islamic culture. It first evolved from being a unisex modest robe to a Mediterranean seaside comfortable robe and then a beachwear,” says designer Komal Sood whose recent resort wear exhibition comprised a mix of inventive kaftans and tunics. However, kaftans first popularly surfaced in India as a part of basic nightwear and then transitioned into other areas of daytime and eveningwear. Since then, the attire has found a distinct place in Indian women’s wardrobes. “The fluid and loose silhouette of a kaftan completely fits the Indian temperament. It further does well in complementing an Indian woman’s body type. Invariably, the wearability of the kaftan makes it one of the most easily sold garments in India,” agrees designer James Ferreira.
Along with the wearability of the clothing, the styling has also been very diverse. Often worn as a daytime outfit, adding a few accessories can easily make it apt for eveningwear. Likewise, pairing a broad belt with a kaftan that’s cinched at the waist is an effortless way to channel a feminine and glamorous look. “I think kaftans have transitioned from being just casual daytime garments to a chic evening staple. The daytime version of it can also be experimented with in several ways. Belting it and pairing it with jeans is an excellent way to modify your look. Additionally, try to accessorise and add pieces that lend a Bohemian and grungy tone to it,” suggests designer Anand Kabra who has been instrumental in incorporating feminine and modern versions of the kaftan in his designs. While adding accessories and pairing it with other pieces of clothing is one way to go about it, it can also be worn simply as a dress or an evening gown if you’re looking for a quick way to tap into the trend.
Ferreira however suggests getting more innovative and adding an Indian flavour to it, “I think infusing embroideries and designs into a kaftan is a very interesting way to wear it. It makes it more unique and adds to the versatility.” The versatility of the kaftan is something that has helped it emerge as a statement outfit. It is also something that augmented its switch from something worn at a beach to a barbeque to a cocktail party and now to a black tie event, even. “It is a must-have for every fashionista. I think it's probably the anti-fit aspect that adds to its popularity and thus, remains so relevant in women's wardrobes irrespective of their size or shape,” says Shivan Bhatiya of the designer duo Shivan and Narresh.
“Back in the day, they used to be heavily embellished, ornately printed and thickly tasselled to say the least. Today they are much lighter, sharper and sexier. From color-blocked to semi-transparent crochet and laced ones, they fit the beach to bar look,” adds Narresh Kukreja.
