Textile travelogue

Sonam Dubal on his Autumn/Winter collection that journeys through the past and the present

November 24, 2014 06:34 pm | Updated 06:34 pm IST

A Sonam Dubal creation

A Sonam Dubal creation

It is not easy to be lucid about something as intangible as inspiration. But it is definitely not hard for the articulate Sonam Dubal. His thoughts are as coherent and well-structured as his silhouettes. He clearly knows the essence of Sanskar (his label), whose leit motif is cultural diversity.

In the city recently to unveil his Autumn/Winter collection Memoirs at Amethyst, Dubal describes this Indo-Asian range in silk, crepe and eri as a link between tradition and the contemporary. “It’s high on eastern sensibilities because how else do you stand out in a global world? I don’t want our style to be dictated by western trends. You have to showcase whatever is your own — the distinguishing features of your heritage and nuances of your crafts.”

The kimonos, sequined capes, dresses, coats, wrap dresses and his embroidered jackets are in a palette that moves from grey, black, brown and maroon to brighter tones of red and fuschia with hints of gold. The line, points out the designer, reflects not the aggressiveness but a woman’s fragility that has a strength of its own. “The cuts are gentle, patterns refined and the concept universal.”

Dubal, an avid traveller, seems to summarise his experiences on fabric. “It’s not just about physical travel. It’s more about space and time travel,” he says. “Travel also brings about movement in your visual vocabulary. And you learn to progress from one design theme to another.” With his Maharashtiran and Tibetan-Sikkimese roots, he has been constantly drawing from the wondrous plains and mountains. “Nature, people and lifestyle have always stirred my mind and soul. And have translated onto prints and motifs in my work.”

How does he manage to strike that fine balance between reviving exquisite crafts and building up a wider customer base? “It’s truly a challenge. Rich fabrics and rare embellisments cannot be mass produced. The economic factor is a crucial aspect.”

Having shown at prestigious fashion shows, what does Dubal feel about these events focusing more on glamour? “Often these shows are talked about like Page 3 events because of the presence of celebrities in row one but the importance of bringing your work to the ramp cannot be denied. They are a way to establish your own market and clientele across the world.”

Dubal may journey back in time through his clothes but he is in tune with the demands of changing times.

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