Heavy silks are out. Ranjani Rajendra finds that the focus is now on lighter materials, embroidery and summery colours this wedding season

The wedding season is back in full swing. This time round, with the winter nip gradually edging out, trousseaus are undergoing a sea change. No longer focussed on heavy silks and velvets, they are slowly and steadily gravitating towards lighter fabrics and more fresh summery colours. In fact, handloom cottons and tulles seem to be catching on with brides and grooms as they gear up for their spring/summer weddings.

“Fashion will be at its best now. With summer round the corner there is going to be an influx of all things fresh and summery. Pastel colours like an English pink, shades of lemon, subtle neons and whites will set the tone,” says designer Anushree Reddy, adding, “in terms of fabrics, fluid, light drapes with chiffon, handloom breezy cottons and tulle will be in vogue.”

The rise in the number of destination weddings has also been a reason for most brides to opt for outfits that are lighter and more comfortable to carry off. The focus is no longer on heavy lehengas or silk saris. The lighter varieties are catching on in a big way, say designers. “Brides are also looking to recycle pieces of clothing from their mothers’ or grandmothers’ wardrobes for a vintage look. So it could be a beautiful jamdari dupatta or a vintage choli borrowed from a senior family member that is then recycled to create a new look for the bride-to-be,” says designer Shilpa Reddy.

While breezy summer colours might be in, brides and grooms are also willing to experiment with black in their trousseaus, says Shilpa.

Grooms aren’t shying away from putting in much more effort deciding their looks either. From a simple dhoti to today’s bandh galas and sherwanis with a twist men are looking to creating a statement as well. “The bandh gala and sherwani have gotten a lot more interesting of late. Well texturised linens in colours will add that extra edge. Dhotis with kurtas will look nice for the smaller events at home. Embroidered pocket squares add finer detailing,” says Anushree.

“Also grooms can experiment with layers with waist coats and long flowing coats on a kurta for that edgy look,” explains Shilpa, adding, “statement motifs might not be a bad idea either for both the bride and groom.

For instance, contemporary motifs lend a great appeal to any outfit, eg: Nikhil Thampi’s Kathakali motif in his recent collection.”

But if it’s ethnic chic you’re looking for then silks are your best bet. However, you can still be as fashion forward in a gorgeous silk sari as you’d be in tulle lehenga.

“Uppada silks have come out winners, finally ousting the eternal favourite Kanchi Pattu.

Worn with blouses with heavy embroidery, detailed necklines and sleeves (some with patterns of arm bands on them), are a great way of carrying off those silk saris,” says Sarvamangala of Anagha. She adds that it has been the season of fluorescents, but not for bridal wear; pinks, oranges and yellows have ruled the colour palette here.

Strike a balance

♦ While the main wedding sari can be a heavy silk one like kanchi, uppada, patola or paithani, try balancing it with lighter ones like organzas and nets.

♦ Investing in a few light saris that can be worn later is a good idea. Opt for silks with concepts like half and half or patli pallu styles.

♦ Tussars with prints are a good option too.

♦ Choose colours that will bring a happy glow to your skin.

♦ Summer brides can also experiment with uneven hemline outfits, jackets with embellished skirts and lots of volume.

♦ The sari can also be styled very differently with dhoti pants.

♦ Contemporary motifs and embroidery can lend a distinctive look to your trousseau.