It must have been her future role designing Team GB’s Olympic kits playing on her mind when Stella McCartney sent out her Autumn/ Winter 2012-13 line in Paris in March this year. While the designer has always drawn from a luxe sporty aesthetic — even when she’s using paisley, polka dots or brocade — the row of skater skirts the collection featured continues to set the precedent for the Spring/ Summer 2013 shows too.
As seen the past few weeks, skater skirts held sway at DKNY, Ralph Lauren, Rodarte, Victoria Beckham, Milly by Michelle Smith, Jason Wu, Richard Chai, Nanette Lepore, Y-3 by Yohji Yamamoto and J. Mendel.
The leaning towards a more relaxed silhouette has been on for at least four seasons now. Skater skirts, though, are a little less grown-up, though in the current versions catering to both night and day wear. Coming as they did from someone as body-con oriented as Mrs. Beckham this month, they now belong to the category of the “realistic”. (Hoodies and track pants, too, but that’s another matter.) She also took her final bow in a black skater dress.
At Ralph Lauren, between the serapes and matador-inspired jackets, skater frocks in black and ivory kept the movement going.
The Mulleavy sisters at Rodarte, in a collection significantly darker and heavier than their previous ones, mixed prints, channelled armour and put in fringed leather, while making skater skirts the most prominent silhouette.
Donna Karan again yelled out from the rooftop her love for the city that forms one half of her label name, ‘NYC’ t-shirts, et al. (Not long ago she brought in the city’s cabs.) Besides skater skirts, there was retro denim, dresses incorporating vests, some classic white shirts and, well, belt purses.
J. Mendel, though, was a more feminine take on the trend, with silk and lace coming in. Nanette Lepore paired floating skater skirts with gingham checked jackets, while Richard Chai toughened up things with buttoned-down khaki. The skater continues to glide, clearly.
