Diaphanous fabrics, quivery ruffles, asymmetrical hemlines and wispy net flowers…There's a new sense of ease to resort wear as Nikasha Tawadey goes beyond her material interest to blend two aesthetic sensibilities.
In Chennai to unveil her fresh collection with a fashion show at Collage, Greams Road, the Mumbai-based designer proves how the relaxed feel of resort wear can be mixed with the trousseau look to create an all-new sensibility that'll make heads turn for the right reason.
“Many people today opt for quiet, laid-back resort weddings in places such as Goa and the Maldives. It's not easy marrying the two sensibilities. One is extremely casual, the other, ceremonial and serious. The best way to give a topical spin to trousseau was to ease out Indian silhouettes with new cuts and whisper-thin fabrics that give a sense of lightness,” says the designer who is just back from the hustle of Couture Week.
Without sacrificing her Boho-chic identity, Nikasha experiments with cut and colour to make the traditional look modern. “I've just reworked conventional silhouettes such as kali, pathan suit, sharara and dhoti pant and teamed them in inventive ways to bring in freshness,” says the designer, whose line for the recent Shanghai Fashion Week was well-received.
The psychologist-turned-designer adds, “I'm a layers person; I don't play by the rules when it comes to design. No straight hemlines for me. I love asymmetry and tiered clothes.”
Differently-styled suits such as the crimson streamlined number in which the surprise elements are the ruffles that break into a swirl below the knee, cropped tunics teamed with palazzo pants, Patiala and silk leggings and saris with fragile flowers sticking out of the pallu … these are some of Nikasha's resort recipes. “For me, silhouettes have to be free flowing. I've used only crepes, georgettes and nets, because their sheerness lends a dreamy quality.” So summarily, the look is soft and feminine, and the vivid tones of scarlet and mustard connect the collection to Indian weddings. Cream, a predominant colour in Bengali weddings too forms a chunk of the colour story. Enhancing the sentimental value of the line are the mythical shiuli flower motifs. “I'm crazy about floral embroidery patterns. I used shiulis in abundance in this line. The pristine flowers with their divine fragrance have made a deep impact on me since childhood. You'll see some cherry blossoms too — from my previous line, ‘In Full Bloom'.”
Having dressed the likes of Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor and Vidya Balan, Nikasha smiles, “Yes, it's nice to have a sprinkling of celebrities on your client list. But, to me, the real stars are the people who buy my clothes.”
Inspiration, to the designer, “is not method calculation. It can come from anywhere. There's a relentless fight going on in the mind — about what will work and what won't. To me, clothes need to have a soul. Every piece must speak with you. Otherwise, even the most technically brilliantly-finished jacket is just a piece of cloth!”
(Nikasha Tawadey is in the city today, at Collage, Greams Road, where she unveils her collection with a fashion show).
