Legacies in lace

Lace still fascinates designers and stylists world over, who are rediscovering its time-tested elegance

November 05, 2014 08:51 pm | Updated 08:51 pm IST

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Our grandmothers have worn it, and so have we, and possibly, our grandchildren will too. In its delicacy and simplicity, lies a timeless beauty that has transcended age and culture. Yet, each generation has found its own way to imbue originality to it, and our times are no different. Lace still fascinates designers and stylists world over; it never quite fully drops off the ramp and somewhere, someone, somehow always manages to sneak it back into the spotlight.

Mumbai-based designer Neeta Lulla has been preoccupied with lace for eight years now, focussing at least one of her collections on the fabric every season. “I find it one of the most romantic materials to work with and I love doing different things with it,” she says. Neeta is best known for her lines of gorgeous chantilly lace sarees, with their sheer, shimmer and shine playing peekaboo with skin and fabric. She’s teamed lace with lycra, kanjeevarams, mull, banarasi, khadi and with numerous other textiles over the years. “The quantity of lace detailing I use varies by the season; festive times are extravagant, spring/summer lines are more minimal. Couture collections can afford to have large amounts of lace, while pret tones it down a bit.” Lace is conventionally used in the pastels, but Neeta says, when done tastefully, it can be carried off in bright neons and dark shades too. Her favourites, though, remain the classic gold or ivory chantilly lace that she’s explored to the fullest this season.

“A classic gold chantilly lace saree can never go out of style; at its best quality, it’s the kind of heirloom that’s passed down generations!” says designer Anushree Reddy from Hyderabad. Anushree’s own practice with lace has been to use it for that vintage touch. “There’s nothing quite like the charm of a floral blouse with that white lace border, or an old-school skirt with crochet lace piping,” she says. Anushree cautions that lace is a tricky material to work with, and unless utilised just right, can border on the tacky. “I suggest you use it as a mere highlighter, rarely in full dresses or sarees, unless you’re in your best shape. The fall of the fabric reveals all your curves.”

For Delhi designer Manish Gupta, lace has been his brand’s trademark fabric for detailing. Silk lace and cotton lace are used as embroidery material, handstitched onto clothes to create a three-dimensional effect. “It’s an all-year fabric! When I first began using lace embroidery, three years ago, I realised it gave me a tonal, textured look that I could work into absolutely any piece, for any season.” To keep things subtle and understated, most of Manish’s lace embroidery is in the shade of the fabric itself, but he has occasionally used contrast colours too. Since his dresses come with heavy embroidery, especially around the neck, Manish advises his clients to keep their accessories simple — “just statement earrings, or a hand-cuff will do.”

Lace has also long since stepped out of couture exclusivity, and into staple fare for fast fashion brands, observes stylist and fashion blogger Karishma Rajani. “Brands such as Forever 21, Aldo or Dolce and Gabbana will constantly have an all-lace dress that’s affordable and simple to style. Lingerie-inspired dresses, with lace detailing at the hemline or along the plunging neckline are now all the rage,” she adds. For that gentle, girly look, she advises you pair your lace with statement crystals, or bijoux jewellery. Lace has found its way into accessories too, crochet lace necklaces, for instance. “With these, keep things minimal, and team them with a monotone top in a contrast colour that’ll highlight your neckpiece.”

So, what’s stopping you? Pull out your grandmother’s hand-me-downs, style up that lace collectible blouse, and flaunt a piece of time-tested elegance.

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