When Sabyasachi Mukherjee decided to do a ramp show for the Ministry of Textiles as a prelude to the Handloom Week (December 21 to 27), fashionistas hooked on shimmering chiffons, caressing crepes and reach-for-your-shades bling were curious. Can handloom be haute? Can style have homespun inspirations? Can mute tones grab eyeballs? But as the evening unfolded, the little master left cynics speechless with his tour de force of skill and imagination. Yards and yards of hand-woven textiles, trompe l‘oeil volumes, feats of draping, fluid motifs, caressing colours and a couture idiom that's hard to match.
As models floated on the ramp on vertiginous platforms in outfits that were structural marvels, the full scope of the designer's métier was apparent. He went about his fresh creative lap without compromising on his core belief that the humble handloom is an adaptive fabric with which you can conjure up interesting looks.
Each a masterpiece
Naturally, he let his textiles do the talking. Styling and craftsmanship were add-ons that melded in a way that each piece turned out to be a masterpiece. From the intricate art of Kalamkari to the sheer weaves of Chanderi and tradition-etched cotton jacquards, his bell-shaped silhouettes were perfect for displaying the beauty of handloom. Despite the potential cacophony of mixing silhouettes, textiles and embroidery techniques (from aari and zardosi to gota and beadwork), Mukherjee managed to spin a coherent narrative. (Swirling skirts were teamed with kurtas and jackets, heavily worked layered salwars with understated dupattas and ghagras with updated cholis.)
With hair neatly coiled into tiny buns and delicately-worked topis on their heads, the models emerged on a stage that was as creatively conceived as the clothes. Even the quaint photos on the backdrop were apparently handpicked by the designer! While earthy browns and blacks flirted with exotic maroons and blues, pretty birds courted beautiful blooms. If his use of complex gathers and layers proved Mukherjee's regard for traditional textiles, his motifs reflected his love for Nature's pulchritude. The fluid tailoring complemented the cuts — mostly flowing silhouettes fitted to the waist and then standing out like a bell. A couple of numbers had innovative fabric folds that trailed behind the model like the plumes of a peacock.
Truly, the Handloom Fashion Show was something to behold!
