It’s new-age fashion, not fantasy. When Berlin-based ElektroCouture and Friends lit up the runway at the Lakme Fashion Week with their light-emitting jackets, colour-changing clothes and glowing accessories, it was apparent that technology-driven futuristic fashion was moving rapidly from far-fetched concepts to commercially viable style statements.
In Mumbai for the show, Lisa Lang, founder, ElektroCouture, spoke about pushing the boundaries of smart textiles and creating tech-driven garments that steer clear of gimmickry. Excerpts from an interview:
How did the concept of technology as a fashion statement appeal to you?
Actually, everything started with my personal frustration. I have been working in the tech world for 10 years. It is a male-dominated environment; the ‘tech uniform’ was/is T-shirts and jeans. I never wear T-shirts and jeans. I am a tech nerd, but have always been a multi-toned fingernails-lipsticks-high heels person.
When I started ElektroCouture, there was nothing in the market for women like me seeking something high-tech, yet fashionable. I wanted to enable strong women to show their love for technology without looking like circus ponies. So I put together things myself. Women really respond to them because they are beautifully designed, crafted with smart technology and, above all, don’t turn you into a robot. Now, we have a strong customer base, and also a lot of glowing fans!
How do you walk the tightrope between creating something functional and fashionable?
Yes, there are associations with disco balls and cheap stuff that blink. We avoided this connection from the beginning, by working with high-quality materials and focussing on high fashion. In a sense, we are similar to couture. We stitch every pearl by hand; only, our pearls glow or come with microchips. We look at fashion as a meaningful narrative, rather than just as gimmicky party effects. Now, that makes our work harder. The principles of good design are the same, with or without technology. We follow these principles first, which is why our products are powerful.
The world of fashion-tech is exploding with ideas. When it comes to creation, are there limitations?
There is no machine yet that can weave a dress and fit microchips or batteries on it at the same time. There is still a long way to go, but we are taking the first step by producing small quantities. We are talking to manufacturers in both the fashion and technology sectors. We just have to get both industries together and empower each other. Standards and certification are huge issues, as there are no categories for fashion-tech in retail stores. Coming from Germany, we are pretty good at establishing international quality certifications. We have already introduced fashion-tech to ‘normal’ retailers like ASOS and Outfittery. There will be a big online retailer stocking our collection very soon. We will definitely be able to ship to India from April.
What are the updates in the world of smart textiles?
We work closely with textile suppliers for the electronic and medical industries. One of our fabulous designers in residence, Lilien Stenglein, just finished a Yoga Tummo collection, which incorporates these textiles. She used heat-reflecting textiles to maintain body heat at the Chakra points. At the same time, she also used a shielding material to protect the wearer from electro smog.
ElektroCouture acts as an umbrella for other designers wanting to make forays into this field…
Innovation is about sharing knowledge and enabling others. The market is still huge. This year, ElektroCouture and I personally invested in our The Studio Program. It is a fashion design studio fully equipped with sewing machines, design equipment, as well as soldering irons, laser cutters and 3D printers. We have a programme for fashion designers and creative technologists in residence. The programme is still running — people can apply until May 2016. Sharing means caring; that’s how we can generate real innovation.
Do you find yourself in a space where you can create without the pressure of competition?
That’s the bright side of taking risks and pioneering a completely new field. It’s like having a huge sandbox all to myself. But I always invite friends and fellow fashion-tech designers to play in it. That’s how the ‘ElektroCouture and Friends’ concept at the Lakme Fashion Week came about. Sometimes, I feel I’ve picked the hardest of disciplines; I wouldn’t like it any other way.
How has your journey been in this offbeat career?
Totally inspiring and empowering. At the end of the day, if you can imagine it first, you can do it. I see opportunities everywhere and like solving problems. I truly believe in the power of ecosystems. I just have to enable people to work together; together we’re stronger.
What is your take on the future of fashion in which technology plays a significant part?
The market is shifting, and designers are taking it more and more seriously. Battery technologies will be very important for this innovation, and the big deal will be smart energy-harvesting systems. I am totally fascinated with Virtual Reality. This is a huge opportunity for fashion; and we’ll release a concept at the Berlin Fashion Week in June.
As a ready-to-wear fashion tech brand, do you think fashion shows across the world are waking up to this segment?
Yes. There is a huge drive towards technology-inspired fashion. Berlin, which spearheaded the trend, has been having a fashion tech show during its annual Fashion Week for years. New York, London and Paris, too, have slots. It’s an exciting opportunity for designers to tell their stories.
What do you think shows like Lakme Fashion Week can do to support fashion innovators like yourself?
We’re super excited to be here. LFW provided us with a great platform to spread our ideas and innovations for the industry. We’re setting new standards and creating technology that will benefit every designer.
