From a thatched-roof, mat-lined school in Malhausi (a village in Uttar Pradesh) that charged Rs. 7 a month as fees to the Istituto Marangoni, a fashion and design institute in Milan that charged around Rs. two lakhs, Rahul Mishra has charted quite a path.
“I didn’t have to pay the two lakhs because I got a scholarship,” laughs the designer who is now based out of Noida. The first non-European to win The International Woolmark Prize earlier this year, the designer was at Evoluzione to showcase The Lotus Effect, his award-winning collection created out of Merino wool.
For this line, Mishra’s turned wool into a summer fabric. “It’s 90 per cent wool and 10 per cent silk. I got extremely fine Merino wool fibre spun. The embroidery is done using wool yarn. I wanted to change the notion that wool is a winter fabric,” he says holding up a pristine white outfit. It’s hard to believe that the sheer, diaphanous fabric is wool. “Even Woolmark Australia could not believe it. My garments passed through all the tests and it was proved this is wool,” he grins, delighted.
Spurred by the honour, the line has travelled across the globe and has been a hit. With its exhaustive intricate embroidery and detailing these delicate garments are like works of art. No wonder then that The Victoria and Albert Museum, London, the keeper of all things fine and valuable has acquired The Lotus Effect in its international category section and intends to archive it.
In white, black, yellow and grey, each of these garments tell a subtle story. The most popular in his collection is a white dress with the tree of life in yellow in front and city life in grey behind. “It got sold off a Munich-based website mytheresa.com in two days,” says Mishra, who made his international presence first through this website. After that it was Harvey Nichols in London. As soon as one enters this high-end store, a large wall with lotus motifs and Rahul Mishra’s name in big bold letters catches the eye. “Finding a space next to Chloe, Balenciaga, Dior and McQueen was dream. This is the first time an Indian designer has been showcased there,” he says.
Colette, Paris too has Mishra, or rather Mischra (that’s how they spell it) in their store. The designer whips out his iPad and eagerly shows pictures of the boutiques where his work is stocked. It’s like sitting with a child who excitedly runs you through his new set of toys. “This, and look at this…and this is what the Australian press wrote,” he smiles, rapidly swiping through the tablet.
Mishra’s philosophy integrates his designs with the craftsmanship of local artisans from villages across India. All the embroidery work for this collection was done by artisans from West Bengal and the rest of the work was done in Chanderi. “We chose the hottest month to develop this fabric. It was in June and the temperature was 50 degrees in Chanderi,” he says. “If we can create this kind of award-winning product with the help of rural artisans then imagine the strength India’s villages have. India shouldn’t be an outsourcing market alone. We need to make “Made in India” happen or rather “Made in the villages of India” happen. “Fashion is not just a glossy, vanity entity. It can help create a better India,” he adds.
Talking about his association with the villages he works with, Mishra is glad to see how their lives have changed for the better. He speaks of a bunch of skilled artisans who were making handicrafts for international luxury brands but living in inhuman conditions in Mumbai. They are now back in their villages, with their families and work from there. “Now they live comfortably and eat a wholesome meal.”
He shows me a picture as proof and a video of an artisan speaking about how happy he is to be working with Rahul bhai . “I learnt from Mahatma Gandhi that you have to become one of them. So when I visit villages I stay in their houses, eat with them, sleep on a charpoy or under the trees. This is where my village upbringing helps me.”
