Eating with eyes wide open

August 22, 2014 10:23 pm | Updated August 23, 2014 06:02 pm IST - Chennai

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Purasawalkam is one Chennai’s quiet entities. However, the place has a deeper connection to the city’s history than is widely known.

Along with Egmore, Tondiarpet and Triplicane, Purasawalkam was one of the four “Old Towns” from where Madras began. In existence since early 1693, this area was once covered in paddy fields. Over the years it slowly developed into a residential area. Then, in the 1980s, it turned into the commercial hub it is today. There are a surfeit of schools, temples and churches, and the residents are a mix of Anglo Indians, South Indians and North Indians.

This amalgamation of cultures is reflected in the food on offer: there are delicious goodies hidden in plain sight on it’s crowded roads. Taking a food walk with Sridhar Venkataraman, in honour of Madras Day, we sample dishes with both North and South Indian influences, as well as some which are wholly Chennai. Most of the places have been around for decades and every resident has their favourite haunt.  

It might be hard to follow your nose here, so keep your eyes wide open and follow us as we guide you through Purasawalkam’s best-hidden gems.

Link’s Traders – Quick Bites & Ice Gola

The murukku sandwich is a Chennai specialty, and no one does it better than Link’s. Tiny crisp murukkus are slathered with pudina chutney so spicy that it forces you to buy a bottle of cold water to cool your mouth. Tomatoes, onions and a ridiculous amount of cheese is added before the entire wobbly construction is proudly served on a flimsy paper plate. Other favourites here are the corn canop (canapé?) with cheese and ice  golas . Service is fast but the place is cramped, filled with college kids that stop here for a quick bite before heading home.

Cost: Rs. 30 for a murukku sandwich and Rs. 50 for corn cheese canop

Address: 22, Raja Annamalai Road (Opposite Dharmaprakash Marriage Hall)

Mehtaa’s Vada Pav

The branch of the Sowcarpet Mehtaa’s makes their famous brand of vada pav more accessible. Run by the third generation of the Mehtaa family, the food here is as good as the Sowcarpet branch. An added bonus: there’s even an air-conditioned space where you can savour the chaat they so excel at.

Cost: Rs. 20 for the classic vada pav and Rs. 30 for the cheese vada pav

Address: 22/9, Raja Annamalai Road

Ashok Pan House

For school students in the area, this is a frequent haunt. Thankfully, by late evening, the crowd has thinned. The tiny shop has been around for 25 years and specialises in sandwiches,  paan  and Masala ThumsUp. The cheese bhujia sandwich, made of white bread packed with thick slices of cucumber topped with  sev,  is a popular choice as is the chilli cheese toast. Opt for the Masala ThumsUp only if you really, really, really love chaat masala: the flavour can be quite overwhelming so it’s best to share.

Cost: Rs. 60 for cheese bhujia sandwich and Rs. 20 for Masala ThumsUp

Address: 3, Raja Annamalai Road

Venkateshwara Boli Stall

While there’s some confusion as to whether this is an original branch of the famous boli stall in West Mambalam, the taste speaks for itself. Served on sheets of newspaper, the coconut boli is soft and delicious.

Cost: Rs. 11 for two pieces

Address: 43/111, Dr Alagappa Rd 

Ajnabee Sweets

Formerly known as Ajab’s Ajnabi Mithai Ghar, this offshoot of the Fountain Plaza chaat shop has made a name for itself in the area. Manager Dharshan says they are most busy in the morning hours, serving a breakfast of dhoklas and fafda from 7 a.m. on weekdays and 6:30 a.m. on Sundays. Parking may be a problem during peak hours. But the newly introduced methi fafda makes it worth your while: it is soft, yet crisp and flavourful.

Cost: Rs. 40 per 100 gm of methi fafda

Address: 51, Alagappa Road, Behind Sangam Theatre

King’s Vada Pav

While the jalebis at Ajnabee look tempting, word on the street is that the shop facing it has better stuff. Barely eight months old, King’s has built a strong clientele based on taste. The jalebis are not served hot, but remain crisp and sweet, lacking the acidic tang often associated with jalebis.

Cost: Rs. 20 for 50 gm

Address: 59, Alagappa Road, Behind Sangam Theatre

Hotel Sri Rama’s

This little restaurant with a sweet shop attached has been around since 1950. Now managed by the grandson of the founder, they continue to serve Palakkad cuisine at competitive rates. As there’s no time for a proper meal, coffee will have to do.

Cost: Rs. ?? per cup

Address: 125/55, Purasawalkam High Road

Welcome Hotel

Welcome Hotel is to Purasawalkam what Ratna Cafe is to Triplicane. The long walk has whetted appetites; many order idli or uthapam with the signature sambhar. We go with the vadai. It arrives at just the right temperature to dig in – perhaps that was because we paused to sprinkle the onion on it in just the right way to Instagram it – but it is delicious.

Cost: Rs. 44 for a plate of two sambhar vadais

Address: 112/241, Purasawalkam High Road

Old Lala Topi Walah High Class Sweets

The name is intriguing but the man behind the counter is none too forthcoming with details about the store unfortunately. The sweets and samosa are displayed in charming old-fashioned glass cases. The counter itself is made of glass containers which hold a variety of murukkus and boondi.

Address: 134, Gangadeeswarar Koil Street

Lingam Hot Chips

Being used to huge, black kadais at the entrance to any chips shop, it is surprising to see an industrial sized fryer being cleaned here. The shop looks unassuming but places a high value on healthy cooking methods. Proprietor Harish says that their popular pakodas and banana chips are fried in oil that is used only once. “The jackfruit chips are made using a no oil method. It’s our own brand called Byocrips,” he says.

Address:  32, Gangadeeswarar Koil Street (Opposite Gangadeeswarar Koil)

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