The happy fabric

How is everyone’s favourite batik made? SHANTHINI RAJKUMAR finds out on a trip to Indonesia

June 03, 2016 04:23 pm | Updated September 16, 2016 10:19 am IST - Chennai

Drawing the designs with hot wax

Drawing the designs with hot wax

You know you’re in batik country as soon as you land in Indonesia. It’s available for sale everywhere: in makeshift shacks on the beachfront, small stores on the road, and air-conditioned boutiques. Intrigued by the different kinds of handcrafted batik clothing in a variety of fabrics, I decided to visit a batik centre not far from my hotel, en route to the Ubud area in Bali.

The place comprised both ikat weavers and batik crafts-persons. We were allowed to visit the smaller batik workshop along with a guide, who with his smattering of English, walked us through the whole process.

Women sat bent over the cloth. Carefully, they dipped a small tool in hot, molten wax to etch out the pencil-drawn pattern on the cloth. The instrument, called canting, looked like a tiny pipe with a sharp prong. Made of copper and wood, it was small enough to be held. The wax in a small cup flowed easily into the spout, allowing the artist to trace intricate designs free-hand. The women also had with them other essential items: pieces of solid wax, wooden blocks and dried fruit peels, which were the source of natural colours for dyeing. Pomegranate, papaya and mango peels were among the most popular.

The process was quite riveting and I had to be careful not to distract the crafter, as I watched over her shoulder. She quickly outlined the designs with the hot beeswax, which acts like a resistant to the dye. When the colour is applied, the wax prevents it from spreading to other areas. Then begins a long-drawn-out process of washing and dyeing which can take months, depending on the number of colours used. Given the design’s popularity, it is now produced in bulk by using carved blocks to print the design using the same wax process.

For me, batik is a happy fabric synonymous with relaxed holidays and fun times; of flowing silhouettes with bold bohemian designs. My first batik from Bali was a linen sarong painted with big pink frangipani against a cerulean backdrop. I loved how the lines blurred and merged into one another, creating that beautiful tie-and-dye effect. The tour ended at the store next to the workshop. Though the locals say that the hand-drawn ones that draw inspiration from Nature are more beautiful than the block-printed ones, to my eyes, they were all equally enticing. Balinese dancers in their elaborate costumes and dramatic poses are featured against a black background, making it perfect for a wall adornment. Men’s shirts of every possible hue were hung on stands. A cotton shirt with an assortment of leaves in blue, yellow and green seemed perfect for my son, but it turned out to be a size too small, so I settled for one with earthy tones.

My eyes then wandered to some bright hand-painted fabric. A sarong covered with colourful corals and exotic fish reminded me of my daughter and her love for the beach. Birds of paradise, chrysanthemums and lotuses on vibrant stoles made it difficult to settle on one.

The store staff were friendly and polite, making the experience not only memorable but also one that I would highly recommend. The people here take great pride in their craft. To top off the experience, I even dined at a restaurant called Batik in Seminyak, where the owner had covered his walls in batik blocks and cloth.

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