Fort St. George
The obvious first choice is this flag-bearer to British life in India. A trading station-turned-fort, the 300-plus-year-old structure is a model for military architecture. At the museum inside, you see displays of the fort’s history, military memorabilia, portraits and tableware from colonial times. Here, you are reminded of the story of SMS Emden , a German Light Cruiser that attacked Madras on September 22, 1914, shortly after the outbreak of WW I. Close-by stands St. Mary’s church (completed in 1680), which is one of the oldest British structures in India. The empty canopy at the entrance, the museum, the records in the church, the 150-ft flagstaff and the quirky Clive’s Corner can enthral you for hours.
Mylapore
What is Chennai without Myalpore? It is at “mayil aarpaarikkum oor” that you get answers to questions on the city’s origins. Peacock motifs in Kapaleeswarar temple and Santhome basilica and references to the bird in religious literature confirm its past as a habitat for the national bird. Once known as Vedapuri, Mylapore could well be the oldest part of the city, with settlements dating back to 1 BCE. It ran a busy port for trading with Romans. This city-within-a-city has many jewels in its crown — ancient temples and churches (Luz church is one); renowned schools and colleges; history in the form of Portuguese/French/British occupation; reputation as the home of great legal minds and reformers; antiquity in its centuries-old houses, vegetable markets, shopping areas and eateries; its club; and recognition as a cultural hub with centres to learn and perform in. A trip to Mylapore is to traverse the bridge connecting Chennai’s past to its present.
Santhome Basilica
This is one of the only three churches worldwide built on the tombs of apostles — the others are St. Peter’s in Rome and St. James’ in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Pope John Paul II visited Santhome basilica in 1986.
St. Thomas, one of the 12 apostles of Christ, is supposed to have come to India in 52 CE, and was martyred on July 3, 72 CE at St. Thomas Mount, also known as the ‘Calvary of Saint Thomas’. Atop the hill, some 300 ft above sea level, there’s a shrine church in his memory.
Manjal
M. Rm. Rm. Cultural Foundation’s Manjal shop in MRC Nagar is a good place for an introduction to the State’s handicrafts. The Foundation, launched by Visalakshi Ramaswamy in 2000, is a non-profit that works for the revival of forgotten crafts, architecture and textiles, especially those from Chettinadu. The palm-leaf products at Manjal made by women from villages routinely win awards and provide them a regular source of income. The designs that the baskets, trays and bags sport are the result of interactions between design-school students and craft communities. The material is indigenous, skill traditional, products hand-made, and the colours eco-friendly. The GI-tagged Chettinadu “kottans” (palmyra baskets) that once had the pride of place in Chettinadu households make for excellent gifts.
The others…
The small Armenian church lights up a different aspect of Chennai’s ecclesiastical history. The Bronze Gallery, Egmore Museum, affords a glimpse of Tamil Nadu’s unparalleled statue-making skills, and the city’s ghee-roast/rava-dosa/uppuma/pongal/vadai and chutneys can thrill gastronomes. If the Marina beach tells stories in beachside buildings and statues, Elliot’s beach has its Danish connection in Schmidt’s Memorial — a perfect round-up to Chennai’s multi-faceted charm. Where else can you see a beach as a permanent carnival ground?
