It is a brand new morning when I arrive at Thailand’s Krabi airport. I am to go some 25 kms off Krabi town, to Ao Nang, a vibrant Thai village on the Andaman coast of that country which is increasingly gaining international tourist attention.
Waiting for my hotel pick-up, I think about whether Ao Nang will really have something for retention, for a quiet celebration in the head. Or will it be too touristy, like some destinations in Thailand are? But there must be something which is bringing so many international tourists, continuously streaming out of the airport, wide-eyed, busy searching their names on placards hoisted up by taxi drivers and hotel staffers. Are they also thinking what I am thinking?
Yes, I have read up a bit on Ao Nang, its fabulous topography, the sporting opportunities, the attractions, but the question still persists — how different can a Thai coast experience be after all? Is its Andaman bay different from its Gulf coast — from that coast’s popular destinations Hua Hin and Koh Samui? Is it any different from the nearby Phuket? Also, is there still any trace of the 2004 Tsunami which devastated so many areas by the Andaman Sea? How safe is it now?
Alas, the hotel pick-up fails to show up and I find myself in front of a taxi-hire counter and within minutes I have an entire minivan to myself. Off I go to Ao Nang!
With the gentle wind of a mint-fresh morning on my face, I peep out of the window — darting — to scan the quiet surroundings and can’t help spotting similarities between my homeland, Assam, and the Thai countryside — the vegetation, particularly the ubiquitous banana trees, the single-storey houses which we call back at home ‘Assam type’. The bright-hued Thai Spirit House placed in front of each dwelling reminds me of the Tulsi plant on a carefully constructed mound of mud most courtyards in Assam flaunt where every day, like the Thais, we light an earthen lamp. Well, there would certainly be some similarities, for after all, the Ahoms who ruled Assam for 600 years travelled from present-day Thailand.
By passing the Krabi town on the highway, and getting down to taking a few quick turns through pretty neighbourhoods waking up from slumber, I end up in Ao Nang half an hour later. A smile invariably spreads on my lips on finding my hotel — Holiday Inn Resort — facing a good stretch of the Ao Nang beach. The tourist information available in my room has an exhaustive list of things-to-do in and around Ao Nang. Ticking off a few, I get down to experiencing this slice of the coastal Thailand before catching up with a quick breaker. A powernap, though needed, can wait!
Ao Nang serves as the main jumping-off point for a clutch of spectacular mangrove islands dotting the Andaman Sea. Ko Lanta, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Poda, Kai or chicken island, Phai or Bamboo island, Hong island, Railey, the Emerald Pool hot springs, a string of ancient caves, the Tha Bok Khorani National Park, the Hat Noppharat Thara — Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park, Bokoranee National Park, the Shells Cemetery, Tiger Cave Temple and yes, Thalae Whaek, a unique geographical spot in the world where, at low ebb, a sand dune emerges to the northern part of the Poda island enabling people to walk right to the Thap island and to Mo island, are a boat ride away.
Sadly, trips to these places begin early morning. So I am left with the option of checking out Ao Nang village, walk on its beach, eat street food (just love the sliced raw mangoes!), do a quick Tesco-Lotus shopping and sniff for a good place for some music in the evening.
A pulsating dot of a place, Ao Nang has many drinking holes and eateries, serving not just flavourful Thai but Chinese, Burmese, Continental and even Indian dishes. Shoppers will certainly find an excuse to pick knick-knacks in the shacks facing the beach. Most shacks aim at serving a tourist’s immediate needs for a comfortable island hopping experience. So you have some really useful water-proof bags and mobile slings, hats and bandanas, sun blocks, colourful beachwear and the likes seeking your attention.
Those not interested in shopping can while away time just sitting by the beach and staring at the sea, at the mangrove islands jutting out of the vast expanse of water here and there, at the elegant long tail boats moored at the shore, at the sprightly speed boats rushing by with happy tourists waving at you.
The night life at Ao Nang, though limited, can be exciting. I listened to some good live music at Boogie Bar, surrounded by a multi-country music loving audience. Though Ao Nang was not as badly affected as the Phi Phi islands during the Tsunami, I note more than one warning tower in Ao Nang, also at various places in the sea to avoid a repeat of the disaster.
Next morning, facilitated by the resort’s travel desk, my discovery of the islands begins. I devote a good part of the day on the Four Island trip — Thap island, Mo island, Chicken island and Poda island — on a speed boat. Surrounded by pristine turquoise waters, each island, filled with mangroves, their beaches silvery white, are a treat to a visitor. The boats with snorkelling equipments give enough occasions to the interested to check out the coral reefs and the school of colourful fish.
However, these islands fade in comparison to Phi Phi islands, particularly the breathtaking Maya Bay. The trip to Phi Phi, a composition of six islets set against limestone mountains, is daylong. Finding myself in clean white-sand beaches, all I do is lounge. Not to miss on the way back is the jewel of Phi Phi, the Pileh blue lagoon. You can see coral reefs and fish from the boat itself. There is also the attraction of Tham Viking, a set of prehistoric paintings apparently done by the Vikings there.
To experience Ao Nang and its surroundings, one needs more than a three-day trip, if keen on exploring the Emerald Pool, the caves and also the Shell Cemetery, a pre-historic shell graveyard. Also, may be a day more if you check into Holiday Inn Resort — particularly to laze around its pool side.
Divided into two wings, the resort has pools exclusively for couples and for families. The couples section has pool entry from the room balconies. Since Ao Nang is considered a family and adventure destination, arrangements are in place in the resort to keep children of all age busy with activities so that parents can get some ‘me’ time. It also has a well-equipped spa.
At the end of the trip, waiting for my flight to Bangkok at the Krabi airport, I think of the three well-spent days, think how different Ao Nang is from many parts of Thailand which can be tourist traps. Also, how amazing is Maya Bay! Ao Nang certainly calls for a revisit and next time, if needed waiting for my pick-up at the Krabi airport, I know what not to think.
(The visit was facilitated by Holiday Inn Resort, Ao Nang, Krabi.)
