‘It’s not Potato. It’s not Batata. It’s Papeta,’ says the menu at SodaBottleOpenerWala, the newly opened restaurant on Lavelle Road that offers a contemporary spin on the traditional Iranian cafe of Bombay. If you’re thinking of making a case for potato, then the same menu promptly says, ‘Don’t argue. All 1,20,000 Parsis cannot be wrong’.
Conceptualised by A.D. Singh of the Olive Group, as a tribute to the dying breed of Iranian cafes in Bombay and the classic Parsi cuisine, SodaBottleOpenerWala came to Bengaluru around a month ago.
For those familiar with Kyani & Co. and Cafe Brittanica, which are among the few remaining Iranian cafes in Bombay, this glossy and modern version of the Parsi cafe, could either be a deal maker or a breaker. But SodaBottleOpenerWala does not mess with either the cafe culture instituted by Iranian cafes or Parsi cuisine. In fact, it reproduces all the details, starting from the décor, palette and the spirit in such painstaking detail that one gets a sense of being in a time capsule that has safely retained the quintessential Iranian cafe, albeit with some modern touches.
Every inch of the wall and the checkered floor is lined with all things retro and kitsch. Drop-down green lanterns overlook small tables dressed in red checkered and crochet table cloths. The glossy bar, of course, is SodaBottle’s addition to the original café. Adjacent to that is a bakery where one can buy ginger biscuits, Badam Nan Khatai and Shrewsbury biscuits by the piece. And finally, near the door are glass jars filled with short-eats that are free-for-all.
The food is thoughtfully named after popular Bombay and more particularly Parsi dishes. I began the meal with the tasty Bohri Keema Pav which is mutton keema served with pav followed by Goan Sausage pav which is even better because it is cooked with onions and potatoes. The one snack that everyone must try is the Kolmi Fry which is fried prawns served with onion. The prawns are crunchy and so well cooked that this snack easily stands out among the rest. For the egg-lovers, there is Tomato Papeta Par Eeda which is the appetizing baked eggs on tomato and potato and Bheeda Par Eeda, which is on spicy okra. For vegetarians, the Spicy Mushroom on Khari is a must-try. Surprisingly, the food is not too expensive with some of the vegetarian dishes starting at Rs.70!
While I was already revelling in all the food on the table, the main course made its way with the Mutton Dhansak and the grand Berry Chicken Pulao. Dhansak, which is mutton and lentils served with caramelized rice and vegetables, is an apt deal-sealer. But nothing beats the Beri Pulao which is mouth watering.
With an interesting jukebox in place, the restaurant stuck to its theme and played old retro English hits. But gradually, the playlist switched to old Hindi classics such as Eena Meena Deeka and Baar Baar Dekho which perfectly set the mood for the Toblerone Mousse and the Caramel Custard. Both are delicious in their own right but the Toblerone Mousse is addictive.
The bar at the restaurant serves an interesting array of drinks. Not only do they have intriguing names, they have amazing ingredients too. The Bawaji Nu Thullu which has Vodka, Gin, Rum and Tequila is enough to get anyone sufficiently drunk. Then, there is Rustom Bantawala which comes in a Banta bottle and is filled with mango and vodka and is rather good. But the best on the menu is the divine Sol of Colaba which has Vodka and Kokum.
Parsi food is incomplete without chai. For those who like lots of milk in their chai, the Irani chai is an apt choice. The Masala ni chai is also delicious, especially when Sar jo Tera Chakraye is playing in the background.
After eating the food at SodaBottleOpenerWala, I’ll have to agree that the Parsis are indeed right and it is Papeta alright!
