As much as the French are known for their radical emancipatory politics, they are also known for their indulgence. For example, the French strung three important words together that defined politics for many around the world — Liberté, égalité, fraternité. They also gave us Champagne.
At Taj Coromandel’s Italian fine-dining restaurant, Prego, Thierry Wallaert, export area manager, Louis Roederer, was to introduce, I was told, a top-end champagne, Louis Roederer Brut over lunch. “It is the very best,” he said with a wink that reminded me of Leonardo Di Caprio in The Wolf of The Wall Street .
It was a sit-down meal — and I feel uncomfortable at these events simply because I use the wrong fork every time — with a French Champagne expert and a couple of others who seemed well-informed about the drink. I had, of course, done my research but, just in case if things started to go above my head, I planned to steer the conversation towards cinema, psychoanalysis and football.
Speaking with a strong French accent, Thierry began with the story of Louis Roederer. “It is perhaps the last wine company that is still family-owned. It has remained within the family for over seven generations,” he said. He went on to sketch the history of the company since 1776, then explained the complex step-by-step process of making champagne, before adding the now obligatory side note: “Champagne is a drink from Champagne, France. If they make it anywhere else, it is called sparkling wine.”
As the meal began, I quickly realised that the emphasis was not so much on food pairing as it was on deconstructing the flavours of the drink. “This particular Champagne leaves a long lasting, fresh, fruity taste on your palette,” Wallaert said, before taking another sip.
Historically, Louis Roederer has been producing champagnes with a strong flavour of Pinot Noir.
“What sets Louis Roederer apart from others,” he claimed, “is that the produce from our vineyards take care of 70 per cent of what we produce. We personally take care of our vineyards unlike the other big corporations that buy grapes from several growers.”
In a post-lunch chat, Thierry explained why Champagne wines are special. “Every process is regulated by law. The grapes have to be grown in the region, the second fermentation must happen after bottling the drink and it should be kept in the cellar for a minimum for 15 months. These are adhered to very strictly,” he said.
I asked Thierry, who comes from the French-Belgian border, if the perception that it is a drink for the elite has changed over the years. “Around 55 per cent of the Champagne market exists in France,” he said.
Which means that, irrespective of class differences, all of French society is drinking it. “It is considered as a more ‘elitist’ drink as you move away from France.”
