On the middle path

The Sunday brunch at China Doll in South Extension has some saving graces, like the water boiled fish

November 01, 2013 07:16 pm | Updated 07:16 pm IST - NEW DELHI:

For a lazy brunch: The fare at China Doll.

For a lazy brunch: The fare at China Doll.

Winters have almost arrived and so is the time to enjoy nice Sunday brunches. After a week of work, I really like to indulge in a Sunday brunch where I get time with my family. Leisurely enjoying some real good food.

To start this season, I go to China Doll, located in South Extension Market Part ll. It is my second visit to the restaurant. The first was last year when it was launched. Being a restaurant that serves traditional Hunan cuisine, it always attracts me.

As the terrace is under renovation, I opt to sit downstairs right in the centre of the hall which has a transparent glass ceiling. Being an avid lover of dim sums, I open my account at China Doll with a variety of them. The good part is that dim sums here are unlimited as appetizers and the main course has also the option of choosing any one or two variety.

The prawn dumpling here is awesome. The covering is perfect. Also, the rainbow variant is beautiful to look at. For starters, I also have its sweet and spicy crispy fish, which is one of its signature dishes. The fish is not as flavoursome as it used to be. The coating lacks the composition to make it crunchy. The salt and pepper prawns are fine but I doubt the freshness of the prawns. One thing which disappoints me the most at China Doll is that that even after returning here after a year, things are the same. No innovation has been done to make the menu better.

In the main course, the change of Chinese chef reflects in the taste. Somehow, the food has lost its Hunan authenticity and is more the ‘Chinjabi’ kind. I have steamed rice with one of my favourite dishes at China Doll, the water boiled fish. It’s a dish which they prepare to perfection.

The kung pao is average as the chicken chunks lack the tenderness. Prawn in chilli bean sauce is too bland. And the chilli sauce overpowers the flavour of the prawns. Also, the chilli garlic noodles, one of the most common and basic dishes in an Oriental restaurant, lacks the flavours. The balance of garlic and chilli definitely needs the attention of the chef.

But, as I always say, if the desserts are perfect, at least it makes you leave a restaurant with a smile on your face. I go for date pancake, thank god it is delicious.

Sunday Brunch is priced at Rs 999 plus taxes per person

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