Layered cakes, mini pies, dessert butters and duffins (yes, that’s a mash-up of doughnuts and muffins) might have been the trendy desserts of 2014, but the eternal love for cheesecake never dies. Although it is said to have originated in Greece, it has taken over hearts and taste buds the world over, with different countries having their own version. The Americans favour cream cheese and the Italians use ricotta, while the Germans use quark, made from sour milk. When done right, the end result is quite similar — a delicious and satisfying dessert. The versatile sweet dish is the star of the pastry shop at The Raintree, Anna Salai for the month of November. Conceptualised by Chef Jacob Justin, the hotel’s pastry chef, the month-long promotion features several varieties of cheesecake.
We’re seated in Madera, the pub, and it’s empty: after all, my friend and I have arrived at noon, just in time to have cheesecake for lunch. Chef Justin walks in holding aloft a large platter of baked and set goodies. “Chocolates are too common, so we wanted to showcase the cheesecake, now that we’re getting really good cheeses here,” says the self-confessed cheesecake lover, adding that the versatility of the main ingredient is what draws him time and again to this particular dish. “Cheese can be made into a savoury or a sweet dish. It’s heavy but in a well-made cheesecake, it won’t be cloying. It’s also hard to fool diners now —they watch international cooking shows and are not afraid to try new foods while travelling. They are well informed and know what to expect from any particular dish and the same goes for cheesecake,” he says.
And so we tuck in: first, into the New York-style cheesecake, which is a baked version made with heavy cream and fresh vanilla seeds. This is followed by the best flavour we taste — the classic Philadelphia cheesecake. It’s made of hung curd, mascarpone and cream cheese, giving it a pleasurably slight sourness.
The Japanese version is more dense and closer in texture and taste to a proper cake. Chef Jacob explains that it’s because of the ingredients used and the method: “It has cheese, milk and butter to which meringue made of egg whites is added. About 50 grams of flour also goes into it, which is why it is more like a sponge than a cheesecake.” Much to our disappointment, the Oreo and Snicker cheesecakes have been sold out but we sample passion fruit, blueberry and a sinfully rich chocolate cheesecake to make up for it.
Apart from the type of cheese used, the crust also plays an important role. The crust for baked cheesecakes is usually made of cookie crumbs and butter. These are blind baked before the filling is poured in; since cheesecakes are baked on a low heat for a longer amount of time, the crust might not cook through. Set cheesecakes can have crusts made with sponge or biscuit crumbs mixed with nuts and butter.
For those aspiring to bake the perfect cheesecake at home, Chef Jacob’s advice is not quite encouraging. “Not everyone can make a cheesecake that easily. A baked one takes patience and a set one requires the right kind of ingredients. Gelatine sheets work best for set cheesecake recipes and they are not easily available. Getting the balance right is also essential; if overbaked, they can be very chewy. But it doesn’t mean one can’t give it a shot,” he says.
Of course, if everyone could make cheesecake, we’d paraphrase actress Kelly Ripa: if there’s cheesecake in the house, we’re definitely having some.
The Pastry Shop, at The Raintree, Anna Salai offers cheesecakes all month long.
Baked Oreo Cheesecake
For the crust
12 Oreo Cookies without cream
80 gm melted butter
For the cheese mixture
500 gm Philadelphia cheese
150 gm castor sugar
100 gm fresh cream
5 ml vanilla essence
3 eggs
2 yolks
4 Oreo cookies
Method
Heat oven to 160 C (350 F). Finely crush cookies with a rolling pin and place in a bowl. Add butter and mix well. Press firmly onto bottom of a 9-inch springform pan. Bake the crust for 5 minutes and then allow it to cool.
Beat cream cheese, sugar, cream and vanilla in a large bowl with an electronic mixer on medium speed till well blended. Add eggs one at a time, beating just until blended after each addition. Chop or crush the remaining cookies and gently stir half of it into the batter. Pour the batter over the prepared crust and top with the rest of the crushed cookies.
Bake in a double boiler for 45 minutes or until centre is almost set. Cool and refrigerate for three hours or overnight.
