The temporary flex board outside reads ‘Moonrocks’, but it hides a painted wall behind, which unveils the Mahabalipuram Moonrakers’ hallmark green-and-blue logo, of smugglers pretending to “rake for cheese by moonlight” in Wiltshire. Their trademark, gigantic, wooden chariot wheels are here too; as are the thatched roof and bamboo partitions, replete with an airy outdoor dining space and air-conditioned interiors. The hardwood chairs are new enough to sport sharp edges, and painted squid, assorted fish and crabs crawl along the white-washed walls, still smelling of the fresh coat. Tucked away on the unlit stretch of Nungambakkam’s Anderson Road, but awash in the yellow glow of Chinese lamps and fairy lights, is the newly-opened Chennai edition of the two-decade-old legendary Mahabalipuram getaway. All that’s missing is the sun, sand and scent of the sea.
To compensate, though, Moonrakers’ has transplanted much of its chilled-out dining experience to this outlet, down to letting you take your pick of the day’s fresh catch. It’s evening by the time we turn up, but a tray of large fish, with the red still shining in their gills, arrives at our table, with glistening eyes and open mouths, seeming mildly peeved at being dead. As tempting as the fat silver fish looks, we opt for the regular tawa-fried fish, reputed to be classic Moonrakers’ fare. And turns out it is. Our pink-shirted waiter, who sings along with the 70s country songs playing over the airwaves as expertly as he’s rote-learnt the menu, brings our order suspiciously soon — in less than two minutes of placing it. Either we’re sadly unpredictable in our choices, or they’re overly prepared, but either way, the fish comes pungent with that fiery-red Moonrakers masala, drowned in curry leaves, fried fairly well on the outside but still tender within. It lacks the joy of sharply roasted edges, hasn’t fully absorbed the marinade, and garlic skins pepper it occasionally, but this is the stuff Moonrakers’ is loved for — quick and generous seafood, done like the beach-sides would, and meant to be wolfed down in gladness, not dissected for elegance.
And the batter-fried calamari with butter-garlic sauce only proves this further. Covered in clouds of crisp batter that gives way to chewy, juicy calamari dripping oceans of oil, this is oh-so-bad for your arteries, but oh-so-good to munch on endlessly! Served on Moonrakers’ standard light brown-plastic plates, with copious amounts of calamari-less bits of fried batter, this dish takes you back to the ethos of Mahabalipuram. You’re itching for that wind-in-your-hair, salt-in-the-air experience, but it isn’t quite there. If the over-salted food is anything to go by, though, all one lacks are a few pints of chilled beer on the side and an afternoon siesta, neither of which can be fulfilled here. Our masala-fried prawns is spot on with the chili and curry leaf masala, but loses itself in the mountains of salt that you must either wash down or just plain avoid. This is best solved when paired with the mushroom rice, which is typical, comfort, Indian-Chinese food — garnished with crispy cabbage and spring onions, bursting with pepper and ajinomoto, and trailing oil tracks behind.
To round off a calorie-rich meal, we close with some more calories: Moonrakers’ signature Nutella pancake. Beautifully crisp, light and thin, the pancake comes oozing with oodles of warm Nutella — a creation so deceptively simple, it’s shameless no one’s thought of it before. And what’s best about it? It tastes exactly like its Mahabalipuram ancestor. And that could be said of most of the Nungambakkam outlet’s offerings, except that the definition of a Chennaiitie’s Moonrakers’ experience meant the long drive down ECR with the promise of great food at its close. Drop by here only if you’re too lazy for the ride. This one’s about the destination, not the journey.
A meal for two is priced at approximately Rs. 800 . Details: 9940172351.
