Heavy spices under the hot sun

The K.R. Puram food tour includes biryanis cooked in a field and served in ‘donnes'

May 23, 2012 09:28 pm | Updated July 11, 2016 08:09 pm IST

Field day: Anand sets up huge vessels containing spices, meat and rice on wood stoves. Photo: Karan Ananth

Field day: Anand sets up huge vessels containing spices, meat and rice on wood stoves. Photo: Karan Ananth

Just a 20-minute walk from the bustling Krishnarajapuram market on the dusty Hoskote highway, lies a field that not only plays host to sports but also caters to the gastronomic needs of local residents and workers.

For four hours every day, it offers a makeshift place for Anand Singh's ‘Field Biryani' service, a huge hit among people here.

“I try to come here as often as possible, the biryani is such a complex explosion of flavours. The meat is tender and just right,” gushes Manjunath Takure, a mason.

Earthy flavour

What started out as an experimental venture by Anand and his family 12 years ago is now a well established business, with four associates.

Anand sets up huge vessels bearing spices, meat and rice on wood stoves at a spot on the field, three days a week, and lets his biryani cook slowly.

Generous portions, fresh off the fire, are served on plates fashioned out of palm leaves, at Rs. 90 a plate. The earthy flavour of the stock on palm leaf blends effortlessly with the rice. Perfectly cut, succulent pieces of lamb are marinated in the same earthen essence. Sliced onions drenched in salted curd is the perfect accompaniment to the spicy biryani.

The stock is also sold separately as mutton soup, which is a slight disappointment, perhaps losing its vigour without the trusty rice and meat.

Tangy sauce

Half a km ahead of the Krishnarajapuram circle, next to Deepa Hospital, lies our next pit stop, Chowdeshwari Donne Biryani.

An open shack that begins its day at 10.30 a.m., it serves mutton biryani, lamb chops, lamb liver and chicken fry in ‘donnes'. Its speciality is a tangy tomato gravy served with most dishes.

This shack is a truck stop favourite, with the smiling owner, Sarala, serving the food. She claims there is nothing special about the two-hour method of preparation.

Priced at Rs.100 a plate, the biryani is not very spicy, but is full of flavour, and can be packed to take home too.

Light ending

Hotel Siva Krishna's Hyderabadi Dum Biriyani is next in line in the Krishnarajapuram food tour. Located just around the circle, this joint offers mutton, chicken and egg biryani.

For the past 10 years, owner N. Koteswara Rao has served biryani from 11 a.m. to 11.30 p.m., all week. This dum biryani separates from the broth and so is seemingly light on the stomach.

Krishnarajapuram is definitely a treat for the biryani lover, who also has the stomach for heavy spices under the hot sun.

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