The Anglo-Indians sure know how to celebrate life. And food. Over many decades the well-liked community has found a way to amalgamate local and British traditions to create a sassy, feisty, cheerful new entity. Over the past few weeks, Madras Day with all its hoopla gave the city a chance to celebrate communities that make the city colourful.
At Savera hotel, The Piano showcased what they called ‘Madras cuisine’ featuring some classic Anglo-Indian dishes including dak bungalow chicken curry, green banana foogath and croquettes. Navratna at Le Royal Meridien is currently running an ‘Anglo-Indian snack box’ offering Kenny Boys Kanjee (a thin broth with chicken and barley), Railway Mutton Curry and caramelised bananas served with clotted cream.
Meanwhile Vivanta by Taj Connemara is celebrating its colonial heritage with the ‘Chronicles of Whitefield’, based on a vintage recipe book dating back to 1906. Handwritten by Harry Blake, one of the original settlers of Whitefield, this manuscript was gifted by Blake’s granddaughter to Arzooman Irani, executive Chef of Vivanta by Taj Whitefield, Bangalore, who used it to create a menu reminiscent of the days of the Raj.
“All the ingredients he used were from a 25 km radius around his house,” says Chef Irani over a meal of lush mutton ball curry, delicate coconut rice and subtly-flavoured Country Captain Chicken. “The food is from the region he lives in, and it has also been adjusted to his taste.” Discussing how the community’s cuisine differs from region to region, influenced by local recipes and ingredients, he says that Blake’s recipes result in flavours quite different from similar dishes made in other cities. “In Madras and Calcutta, for example, the community’s food is spicier.”
If you’re in the mood for some authentic Madras-Anglo-Indian fare, however, take a look at Connemara’s original menu. As general manager Samrat Datta points out, this is one of Chennai’s oldest luxury hotels. Built in the mid-19th century, it was named after then Madras Governer, Robert Bourke, baron of Connemara (a county in Ireland). Hence it seems only fitting that their restaurant, The Verandah has always offered a succinct collection of Anglo-Indian food: Mulligatawny soup, railway lamb cutlets served with devilled chutney and good old-fashioned Bread butter pudding.
What stands out right now, however, is the debut of a new line of cocktails: pithily titled the ‘Colonial Hangover’ range. Blending European spirits and Indian spices, they include an Earl Of Raj (Gin with bay leaf, cinnamon, cardamom, Earl Grey tea and lime juice), Herbal Mary (Vodka with parsley, celery, ginger, Tabasco sauce, Worcester sauce, tomato juice, lime juice and salt/pepper) and The Maharaja’s Express (a fusion of vodka with lemon, lemongrass and pineapple, finished with Sauvignon Blanc).
Call Navratana at Le Royal Meridien for more details on 2231 4343. Call Vivanta by Taj Connemara on 6600 0000 for more details.
Both festivals conclude on August 31.
Herbal Mary
Vodka - 60 ml
Parsley - 2-3 sprigs
Celery - 2-3 sprigs
Ginger – 1
Tabasco sauce – 6-8 drops
Worcester sauce – 5 ml
Lime juice - 10 ml
Tomato juice - 40 ml
Salt/pepper – to taste
Recipe courtesy Vivanta by Taj Conennemara
