Splashes of red greet the eyes upon entering the Masala restaurant at the Holiday Inn hotel. From draped cloth and twinkling lights to the burning coals warming the food at the counters, the colour serves as a reminder of many spices the restaurant derives its name from.
And it is a similar affair when it comes to the food as well, with a dash of spice livening up the menu at the ongoing kebabs and biriyani festival.
Three large vessels hold steaming dum biriyani, with hot coals placed upon the lids to keep the preparation warm. Specially made earthen vessels filled with more coal ensure that the range of kebabs is kept at precisely the right temperature. All this attention to detail, according to Executive Chef Joji Joshua, is to ensure that the preparation remains as authentic as possible. “The thing about making these kebabs in the dry heat of a clay oven is that it seals the juices within and gives it that melt-in-the-mouth quality, which we have tried to create.”
Everything from the breads to the salads have a touch of masala, with a variety of North Indian chaat replacing the standard leafy fare at the salad counter. “Since kebabs are much more popular in North India, the chaat is also a nod to the cuisine of the region. The biriyanis are made in different preparations that are popular across the country,” Joji explains. A bowl of aattin (lamb) broth soup at the start of proceedings is a good choice for what lies ahead.
The kebabs are succulent and come in varities that would satisfy meat lovers and vegetarians alike, be it ajwaini fish tikka and hariyali murg or paneer pudina tikka and kumbh akbari. The tender nature of the traditionally prepared kebabs at times makes it difficult to differentiate meat from vegeterain fare.
From Hyderabadi murg dum biriyani to nargisi kofta biriyani, the different varieties of the dish on offer represent the culinary landscape of the country.
The nargisi kofta, with a boiled egg and keema combination, provides a strong overpowering tanginess after the milder flavours of its Hyderabadi cousin. Vegeterians have the option of trying the vegetable dum biriyani, with accompaniments like paneer dilruba, gatte ka subzi and different varieties of the ever popular dal.
Also at hand to help with the ambience are the ‘veppukaran’ standing vigil over the steaming biriyani and Babu the magician, who is always at hand to entertain with a card trick or two. And speaking of accompaniment, the biriyanis are well served with a range of raitas and the trusty sulaimani to add to the flavour. From the sweet pineapple raita to the squishy tang of raisin pickle, it is an exercise in choosing the right combination and reaping the reward.
To wrap things up, there is a well–stocked dessert counter, with mango flavoured treats being dominant. However, if you have a little extra room left, a helping of Arabic Um Ali topped with a gulab jamun is the way to go.
The kebabs and biriyani festival is on for dinner at Masala from 7.30 to 11 p.m. till May 18.
