A lassi called Jhansi ki Lassi, the entire half litre of it, sounds intimidating and possibly because it would take courage to consume when it is named thus, a nod to Jhansi Ki Rani. A condensed milk topped version of the good old lassi, it is worth every calorie it is loaded with. Leave the guilt for later. At the newly opened North Indian eatery, Chotte Sarkaar, Indian Chinese is Indian, and there are many such surprises.
Nidhin Panicker, when he set up the place with his brother and partner, intended the place to be more of a takeaway joint. There is a casual seating arrangement and the even more casual bean bags. How one negotiates naan, butter chicken and lassi sitting in one…go figure!
I couldn’t, so I opt for the stable looking bench. The table has orange, mint and lemon candies beside pickled onions and mango in brine. The patrons are, primarily, the dinner crowd. This is lunch time. Located in Kochi’s food street, Panampilly Nagar, or more precisely Atlantis Road. Mumbai-bred Nidhin had an eatery there before he relocated to Kerala. He uses the past experience to provide an ‘authentic’ food experience at this is a take away- cum-eatery. A foodie, he says, he has eaten his way through Mumbai and has added some of those foods to his menu. “We wanted to put on the table the kind of North Indian food, tandoori included, with flavours different from what is available here.” The food is meant to please and pander to the palate. Sans snobbery or gourmet pretentions, it is the uncomplicated – the kind that makes you say ‘yummy and value for money’.
Yummy Rice for instance – inspired by something Nidhin had in Mumbai – a multicoloured palette it is; the colour coming from more than 10 vegetables – broccoli, red cabbage, celery, baby corn, spring onion and even the unexpected lettuces – iceberg and Romaine.
Chicken wings in black pepper sauce are crisp with the right balance of the bite of pepper and sweetness from honey; it takes self control to not reach out for the third and the fourth. Little wonder these are among the bestsellers on the menu. Providing the seafood quotient is the honey chilli prawns. There is a Chinese section as well with the usual fried rice and others.
There are plans to include a tandoori section for which trials are on. The highlight, according to Nidhin, will be the sharaabi gosht. Also being planned is an express meal – Chotte Sarkaar’s take on the thali meal concept. The main course is butter roti and chicken Punjabi, the rotis are excellent. There are a few desserts to choose from; however the Jhansi ki lassi makes for a filling wrap to the meal. There are plans for a one litre lassi, which will be the lassi to beat all lassis. In the meanwhile let's enjoy the hospitality.
