The first time I ordered stroganoff in a city restaurant a few years ago, it was a complete disaster. I swore never to order it anywhere ever again. However, faced with a plate of the dreaded dish at Jonah’s, I have no choice but to sample it; my resolution weakens, if it does not completely vanish.
Situated on Besant Nagar’s crowded 2 Avenue, Chennai’s latest bistro has been busy in spite of having just a soft launch. The brainchild of serial entrepreneur Sam Paul, the place is named after his five-year-old son. With the largely Continental menu conceptualised by ‘Mad Chef’ Kaushik, Jonah’s offers desserts and baked goods in collaboration with Baker’s Street from Pondicherry.
It is a small space, seating a little over 30 people. My colleague and I sit in the little alcove at the back.
We begin our meal with thick, subtly flavoured chicken broth, and a tomato-basil soup. Slices of Baker’s Street baguette topped with fat pieces of sun-dried tomatoes and herbs make a pleasing bruschetta. Munching on a fritto misto seafood platter of batter-fried calamari, fish and prawn, we wait for our entrees. To go with the meal is a lime mint cooler and piña colada heavy on the coconut cream.
Here’s where we come back to the stroganoff: tender beef/chicken and crisp vegetables in white sauce are served on a bed of herbed rice; it is the highlight of the savoury dishes. Steak done to order (I have mine medium rare) is served with gravy and creamy mashed potatoes.
Vegetarians have little to choose from on the menu, but what we get is tasty: three-cheese pasta with green olives and vegetable au gratin topped with a crust of panko crumbs, cheese and herbs with peppercorns. The vegetable stroganoff is chockfull of zucchini, bell peppers and cheese.
Huge, refrigerated cases allow us to choose our desserts and we go for the light coffee éclair, fig and chocolate tart and a lemon tart that leaves our lips puckered. We’re also served a spread of uniquely flavoured chocolates: cinnamon, banana, and rum and raisin to name a few. A masala-flavoured chocolate faintly tastes of biryani. A shot of strong espresso wraps up the meal nicely ahead of a long drive back home.
Jonah's is located at 147/9, 2nd Avenue, Besant Nagar. A meal for two is priced at Rs. 800
