The closest I’ve been to a black truffle is on Farmville. So when Chef Luca D’Amora places slivers of one of the most expensive edible mushrooms in the world on a dish that’s soon set in front of me, it’s a little overwhelming.
Although truffle oil is used in some dishes on a regular basis, fresh truffles are not often available. There are four varieties: black summer, black winter, white summer and white winter. With the black summer truffles in season, Prego, the Italian restaurant at Taj Coromandel, has created an a la carte menu to showcase the versatile ingredient.
What makes these mushrooms so rare is the fact that they are found exclusively in a few regions in France and Italy. They grow under the roots of certain trees and can be very hard to find; anyone who found a cluster of truffles used to become a millionaire overnight. Even today, a kilo of fresh black truffles costs about Rs. 70,000. The white truffles are smaller and rarer still and could go up to Rs. 1.5 lakh per kg. Small wonder then that it is called the diamond of the kitchen! The white truffle has a stronger flavour than the black one. Although it is now cultivated, it is still an ingredient cherished by chefs the world over for its woody, earthy taste.
Chef Luca has, of course, used truffles extensively in his cooking. “It goes really well with classic Italian dishes. Fried eggs with truffles is an excellent combination. But it has to be treated carefully. Overcook it, and it loses all its flavour and becomes like plastic. So it’s best to use it in the finishing of the dish,” he says, adding that it’s not one of his favourite ingredients. He also explains how it works best with flavours like garlic, asparagus, leek and parsley because they elevate the truffle itself, whereas ingredients like tomatoes will drown it.
I taste a thin slice of truffle by itself; as promised, it is very flavourful and earthy, and like all mushrooms, a bit slimy on the tongue. Taking a bite with seared scallops, fresh fig and orange and parsley puree, I understand what Chef Luca explained about elevating flavours. But it goes best with various types of cheeses: warm, wood-fired pizza with melty mascarpone cheese topped with truffles and minced chives, parmesan cream with vapour-cooked baby asparagus, salty pecorino infused with grated truffles and drizzled around spaghetti with lamb ragout and the pièce de résistance, creamy ricotta with truffles, pistachio sponge cake and candied orange and blueberries with a raspberry sorbet.
According to Chef Luca, “It’s all about the freshness of the ingredient. That way, it’s more impactful.”
The truffle festival will be on from April 17 to April 26 at Prego, Taj Coromandel, Nungambakkam High Road. For details, call 6600 2827.
