The clouds hung low over Shimla, where houses perched on the mountains like mushrooms on a giant dunghill. At least, that’s how it looked after 200 years of unbridled development. Drawn by its cool weather and pleasant surroundings, the British elite trickled into Shimla between 1813 and the early 1830s. Today, the bustling capital of Himachal Pradesh seemed to split at its seams, as we turned left from the only traffic light in town and continued 22 km north to the laidback retreat of Naldehra.
Smitten by the undulating grassy meadows fringed by tall cedar trees, Lord Curzon — Viceroy of India (1899-1905) — spent much of his time here. Curzon set up India’s oldest golf course here; it is also one of the highest 18-hole golf links in the world. Its undulating terrain made the Par 68 course one of the most challenging in the country.
We swung up the drive of The Chalets Naldehra, set on a two-acre property owned by the enterprising father-son duo Yatish and Amish Sud. Originally a personal holiday home close to the golf course that has now become a resort. Every chalet is named after historical people from the region. F. Younghusband Chalet is named after Sir Francis Younghusband, the explorer and adventurer. The Gerard Chalet after Patrick and James Gerard, early explorers who mapped the hills; Captain Kennedy Chalet after Charles Pratt Kennedy, the first Political Officer to the Hill States; and Sir Henry Collet Chalet after the British botanist and army officer who authored Simla Simlensis , a handbook on the flowering plants of Shimla.
Our room was scented with pinewood and the balcony offered a view of cedar forests and curious monkeys. We could have sat at the viewpoint for hours but chose to take a diversion and trudge up to the Naldehra golf course. There, the old temple of Nanahal Dev (or Mahu Nag) stood by the greens. Tourists rode horses to the sightseeing points while the adventurous tried the zipline. Some were content to pose in Himachali costumes. By evening, we were back at Chalets Naldehra to try the revolving restaurant, 360˚ Top of the World, the first one of its kind in Himachal Pradesh.
The Chalets Naldehra was also perfectly placed for excursions. A long winding 25 km downhill drive past rolling countryside took us to the Sutlej, cutting swiftly through gorges. Whitewater rafting is possible along a tame five km section, serious rafting enthusiasts undertook daytrips to tackle Grade II-III rapids that began further upstream. The trip culminated at the hot springs of Tattapani. Hot water bubbled forth on the right riverbank, prompting people to take dips, and even indulge in mud slinging. Sadly, Tattapani faces the imminent threat of being submerged by reservoir waters of the Kol Dam by the end of the year.
The historic Shiv Gufa (cave) was just five km away at Saraur but we continued 40 km to Mahunag instead. There were several Mahunag shrines dotting the region, as we discovered on our leisurely morning hike to the charming 500-year-old village of Kogi. As the sun lit up the village, the beauty of Naldehra’s surroundings came alive. The ancient temple of Nanahal Devta (Mahunag Mandir) with beautiful woodcarvings lay in the heart of the village.
For a taste of typical pahadi cuisine we dropped by at the Grameen Bhandhar Naldehra, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it eatery-cum-store. Run by local women, who also run the adjacent Himachali Craft Centre, the menu sported intriguing items like Babru,Khairu and Siddu.Siddu , a steamed dumpling, is eaten with spicy, mint-chilli chutney and hot ghee.
Just 11 km from Naldehra was the country’s first private apple orchard set up by Alexander Coutts, tailor to former Viceroy Lord Dufferin. Spread over 64 acres at a height of 2286m, it housed rare trees and flowering plants with an uninterrupted view of the Himalayas.
Equally nice was the drive along meandering mountain roads and swathes of forest towards the Himalayan National Park at Mahasu massif. The snowy slopes of Kufri (16 km from Naldehra) lured skiers in its heyday. Today, it bears the scars of mass tourism. A steady line of mules, yaks and horses wound up the slushy narrow roads bearing tourists. Few visited the high altitude zoo at Kufri, home to rare antelopes, wild cats and Himalayan birds.
Back in Shimla, we went on a heritage walk from Scandal Point to Viceregal Lodge past several colonial and historic landmarks — the General Post Office Building (1883); St Andrew’s Church now a library and college; Bantony Castle, residence of the Maharaja of Sirmour slated to be a museum; the Railway Board Building, Gorton Castle (currently AG Office); the Knockdrin or the Chief of Staffs’ residence (1862) and the Central Telegraph Office.
Locals thronged Lakkad Bazaar for provisions. Rosy-cheeked schoolgirls chatted animatedly in chorus. Nostalgic old men ambled down Mall Road recounting the years of their youth. The words of F. Beresford Harrop from his 1925 New Guide to Simla rang true, “The transmitters of gossip are ever at work and savoury and unsavoury secrets of our society are flashed to the uttermost limits of Simla with all the speed of wireless.”
Getting there:
Take the Kalka Shatabdi train from Delhi to Kalka (4 hrs) and take the narrow gauge Kalka Shimla Heritage train (5 hrs). If you’re in a hurry, drive 99km from Kalka to Shimla (3 hrs), from where Naldehra is another 22 km.
