Dharavi gets a lot of attention as Asia's largest slum. But against all odds, it's also a thriving hub of small enterprise – an activity that reflects the spirit of Mumbai. Text & Photographs PAUL NORONHA
It may disdainfully be called Asia's largest slum but it continues to attract tourists. Dharavi is, however, much more than all that. It reflects the core of Mumbai with an extraordinary mix of people from across India trying to make a living, though And work conditions here are nothing short of horrendous. Crammed sheds, which double up as homes, open toilets with virtually no garbage disposal facilities pretty much epitomise Dharavi. People live in subhuman conditions but have no way out as it is their ticket for survival in a city which promises everyone a dream of making it big someday.
The recyclers: There are a couple of ‘small factories', spots where plastic is recycled into long circular strips and then attached to handbags. There is another spot where plastic is separated from waste, not the most pleasant of tasks as people have to sink their hands in waste.
The leather trade: The insides of Dharavi reveal sordid realities like the processing of cows' nerves and the inner lining of their stomachs. These are exported in huge quantities to China and are big revenue streams for local businessmen. The work place is not exactly a pretty picture. With the end-product stored for months before being dispatched, the stench here is overwhelming. Business is profitable and workers are paid peanuts. There is a leather tanning unit close by, which exists despite this activity being shifted to another part of the city. Rules are broken in Dharavi but who can pin anyone down when survival is the top priority?
The foundries: The iron and steel foundries of Dharavi are like living gas chambers. Workers end up inhaling carbon and sulphur dioxide day in and day out. They are cramped in small rooms with very little ventilation. Their skins turn dark from working here but they face more serious problems in the form of lung and kidney disorders.
The snack factories: Anil, 18 years old, is from Uttar Pradesh and has been working here for six years. The only option back home is farming, which does not assure a regular income. Sometimes, he spends entire day frying Moong Dal in a pan of hot oil. The ladle is heavy and almost impossible to handle, thanks to the heat.
Keywords: Asia's largest slum, Dharavi, living conditions




Thanks to Mr.Paul Noronha for publishing the photos. We must thank to the workers for recycling the plastic so that they are keeping surroundings clean a bit. The pictures are very realistic and thanks to the Hindu team.
Plastic is now in villages too where the birds and cows are dying eating them. The clog the rivers and lakes in a water starved country such as ours. Plastic containers must be banned and there should be a heavy penalty on Coke, pepsi and other companies that promote the use of plastic and don't care about the end of life of their products.
Hearty congratulations to Mr.Paul Noronha and "The Hindu" for publishing this bitter truth. The pictures show the true side of India. Politicians create a mirage about the economic boom and India emerging as a economic superpower. The pictures should stir a sense of responsibility towards these people. Every morsel of food wasted is a crime - if you are a theist, it is a sin; if you are an atheist, it is agaisnt humanity. I wonder what is the relief for these people. Is India truly an independent and self-governing country, with people living a life worse than animals, even after six decades of independence ?
salute to their hardships and faith in optimism. i think we should learn the art of existentialism from them. At the face of adversity, these people share, work and laugh together. i really loved all the photographs shot with such a precision that it looks almost effortlessly done...all the very best to Paul Noronha for his future enterprises... and to reveal the hidden aspects of daily realities...
this is our country.now proud about it.
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