Summer lawn suits are passé and the kameez humdrum. Pakistani fashion has now become more “global with local accents,” according to designer Riwan Beyg, who was among the designers from Pakistan, who participated in the latest edition of the Lakme Fashion Week, and demonstrated how moving away from conservative frontiers has changed the industry.
Beyg belongs to a growing band of Pakistani designers endorsed by celebrities from the West. His ‘Digitruck’ defines an emerging global-local aesthetic. Inspired by the work of indigenous truck artisans famous for their signature fish, bird and floral motifs, the designer gives the collection a global spin with stylised digital prints and colour blocks. “I believe in individuality. To be fashionable is less important to me than being able to project an original sense of style.”
A decade into the business, Zara Shahjahan explains that the growing market for prêt has prompted designers to create everyday clothes that are both fashionable and comfortable. “Though well-defined cultural boundaries govern our fashion, designers have to be imaginative and come up with fusion-wear — even if that means giving the kameez a modern twist. We are committed to creating fashionable everyday clothing, in sync with global trends.” Shahjahan’s ‘City of Gardens’ uses vintage floral motifs in a fusion line of bridal that’s feminine, yet edgy.
The youngest of the lot, Sana Maskatiya attributes the change to fashion pageants and portals that have helped open up the retail market. “Designers are now willing to experiment with new designs, cuts and inspirations,” says Maskatiya, who was shortlisted for the prestigious International Woolmark Prize 2014. Her collection for LFW resonated with Japanese references. The landscape, cherry blossoms, tea houses, turtles and treasure chests occupy prime place on her design canvas. While she scales boundaries for inspiration and global appeal, the soul of the line is quintessentially Pakistani with a rich mix of print and hand embroidery techniques.
Faiza Samee is another recognisable name in Pakistan’s style circuit. “Traditional craft techniques are intrinsic to the country’s identity, but designers now use them to create Western and fusion wear that’s becoming popular,” says the designer, who couldn’t make it to the LFW. Though her strength lies in traditional hand embroidery, Samee’s designs are constantly evolving. The latest collection features short to mid-length tunics, some even cut on the bias. The pants are loose fitting, and the jackets cropped. The typical Pakistan touch comes from the painstaking hand embroidery and block prints.
From what is shown on the global runways, it’s apparent that, while Pakistani designers experiment with cut, silhouette, palette and theme, they still depend on the hand skills of artisans for that unmatched local lilt. “We are fortunate to have access to immensely talented artisans. But, of late, given the laborious nature of the job, they are frustrated and don’t feel like carrying on the legacy. Hand-crafted fashion is classic and will soon become priceless, as the resource to produce it is fast diminishing,” says Maskatiya.
Rizwan, who has worked with rural artisans and spurred the ethical fashion movement in Pakistan, says, “The importance of prêt is gradually limiting our crafts to bridal. But designers are making a conscious effort to preserve our signature stitches by using them subtly. A handful of designers are deeply committed to crafts, despite the harangue of the fashion press to promote prêt and garments with lower price points. Crafts are our true calling.”
With a ‘glocal’ sensibility that marries the best of home-grown crafts and globally appealing styles, Pakistani fashion seems headed for interesting times.
What they say
RIZWAN BEYG:We speak different fashion languages, but our goal is the same – to dress up people stylishly.
ZARA SHAHJAHAN:Pakistan is famous for its hand crafts. It will continue to occupy a significant place in bridal, where detail is treasured.
SANIA MASKATIYA:Bollywood stars do make an impact on Pakistani youth. There’s a lot of aspirational value when it comes to screen style. People want to dress like the stars..
FAIZA SAMEE:The salwar- kameez is one of the few pieces of traditional wear that has survived change. It’s amazing how tradition is refreshed within a template.
