Mine certainly did. Our son wanted to study at a good American University. In the early 1950s, if you had a dream, it remained unfulfilled unless you could afford it. Taking a loan was unthinkable. That was only for life and death matters. The first college he wrote to replied, “3,000 foreign students apply to us annually and almost all want scholarships. Sorry.” Others replied similarly. We advised our son to keep studying meanwhile and graduate well from school.
For the first time in my life I thought of taking up a job. At 40? No degrees, no business experience. Not very promising. Besides, I would hate to be cooped up in an office from nine to five. What would I like to do? I liked meeting people. That suggested travel, tourism, hotels. Although we had lived in Calcutta for years, I had never really seen the city. For the next four Sundays, my husband drove me to all the places in the Guide Book. Calcutta is an industrial city. It doesn't offer much by way of tourism. Often, businessmen who have a few hours to kill between planes, take a quick tour. The tourist season is from November to March. The rest of the year we look up at the skies for manna from heaven.
Beginning of an idea
My inspection tours showed there was good scope for an entrepreneur in city tourism. Wherever we went, touts attached themselves to us and in broken English tried to parrot what they had picked up. They were a nuisance. The TV ads say, ‘An Idea can change your life'. Mine did. Why not become a tourist guide? I was sure I could do a much better job. Then the ‘buts' set in. What will people say? Why is Silloo roaming around in taxis with strange men? Are the Mehta's so hard up? In our society, I would definitely lose caste. Could I take it? A bridge in Edinburgh has a plaque, ‘they say, what say they, let them say.' I'll follow that advice. Easier said than done.
We discussed the economics. It wouldn't require much capital. The only investment was myself. The more knowledge I acquired about the country, the better I would be at my job. I definitely liked the idea because it gave me freedom to be myself. The major travel agents in town were Thomas Cook and American Express. One morning, dressed elegantly, I went to Thomas Cook's office. Assuming me to be a customer, I was shown to the Manager's desk. I told him what I had discovered and suggested he engage me as a guide for his tourists. Mr. Roper was astonished but receptive. He said, “Mrs. Mehta, you are the answer to our prayers. Many a time we have to pull out the office staff because we have no one to accompany our VIP tourists”. Thus began Mrs. Mehta's Guide Service.
Next day I called some of my friends to coffee. I selected four ladies. Two were married with children at school, and two were single, middle aged. All were educated, intelligent and comfortable in any society. They were bored with their lives and as I expected, ready to try something new. I warned that this was a job. They would earn peanuts but learn a great deal. I prepared a slim guide book about India. My guides should know something about India's history, geography, governance, economy, population, religions, etc. I am neither a historian nor a scholar, but I was enormously interested in the evolution that was taking place in our country during the last century. I wanted my guides to answer intelligently the questions their tourists would ask.
In the early 1950s, the kind of tourist world I entered seemed tailor-made for me. The tourists were mostly rich American couples going round the world after a life time of work. They expected VIP treatment everywhere and their travel agents provided it. I planned an itinerary of two half day tours and one full day. Most chose half day in the heat. (At the end of the War there were few American cars, only Ambassadors with no ACs.) The tour lasted three and a half hours. My guides were not professionals. They spared two or three days of the week for me for my tours because they enjoyed the work. The rest of the time was their own.
I would introduce myself and the tour would begin. For me it was like taking friends out. Some people were more knowledgeable, more interested in the country and its people. My favourite place in the tour was Calcutta's Jain Temple. There are many Jain temples in the city but this one was unique. Set in a little garden with a pond in the centre, this temple was like a little jewel box. Completely set with pieces of coloured glass it was an enchanting mosaic of reflecting light. In the place of honour was a Jain Tirthankara made of marble. Jainism has 24 Tirthankaras, Mahavira being the last. They were great souls who attained perfection of spiritual knowledge and were a role model for those seeking spiritual guidance. Jainism believes in absolute non-violence.
Next we drove to the Victoria Memorial, the only museum of British rule in India. This marble monument was Lord Curzon's enduring homage to his Queen. It contains wonderful miniatures of Mughal art and calligraphy and an interesting history of the Raj in India.
Personal rapport
We spend a large part of the time driving around and talking. By the end of the tour we have usually established good rapport. Mass tourism of the present day has destroyed this kind of rapport. When I read some of the letters tourists have written to me, I feel a glow in my heart even now. I don't remember their faces but they must have been nice people to take time from their busy lives to say ‘thank you' to a guide so far away. Here are some of the nicest letters. “You are the best guide I've ever had in all my lengthy travels. You contributed more to my understanding of India than several dozens of other people. I am truly grateful. Kenneth Strobel, Alaska”. “You showed us Calcutta and spent your time with us and since then your country has all our sympathy. We shall not forget you. Mathias Seitz, Germany”. “You will not remember us but you were our guide in Calcutta on April 28, 1957. We not only enjoyed our trip but enjoyed you and remember you as one of the loveliest personalities it has been our privilege to meet. Mrs. K. C. Kaiser, USA”. “Thank you for making our visit to Calcutta so enjoyable. The very delicious tea in your home and the stimulating conversation is one of the highlights of our trip. Margaret and Jerry Kendall, San Jose, California.” What more can one want, I chose the right career. Sometimes it could be boring and tiring but that happens in any job. One just carries on.
Slowly, as the business grew, Thomas Cook and Amex Co. began entrusting their cruise ship tourists to me. Once every year, the cruise ships come to Bombasy in March and from there, groups of tourists would fan out to visit different parts of India. Calcutta was the base for the east. Travel agents spared no effort or expense to cater to these VIP tourists. Sixty years ago only the very rich could afford these luxurious round the world cruises. Lavish cocktail parties were held in five star hotels. Now we really came into our own. Suddenly, everyone wanted to be one of Mrs. Mehta's guides. Those who had taken a dim view of my career choice began calling me up. (Meow, Meow). But, there was a snag. The Agents didn't want to invite our husbands. I said, then you can count us out. Reluctantly they agreed. Incredibly, it was the husbands who made a hit. The tourists had seen plenty of pretty women but they were eager to talk business with the men. Business opportunities in India, foreign investments, eager to supply anything that this huge country might need. Unfortunately, we had very little foreign exchange. As I told Mr. Phillip Pillsbury, “we drool over your cake mix ads. Why don't you send them to us?” He said, “I have been trying for years. I understand your foreign exchange difficulties, but mark my words, Mrs. Mehta, one day every store in India will carry the Pillsbury Brand.” Today it has come true.
The Government of India, aware of India's tourist potential, was busy establishing tourist offices all over the country. Preparing advertisements, recruiting staff, training guides, etc. It was bound to affect my business. Reluctantly, my supporters Thomas Cook and Amex Co. started using government guides. They said, “we need the tourist office for their help in many ways and we cannot ignore them, even though we know how much better your service is.” I understood. I also knew that this David and Goliath battle could end only in one way. One morning, I received a letter from the Director of the Government Tourist Office, Calcutta which sent my BP plummeting. He ordered me to employ only authorised government guides. I showed it to my husband. He said, “I'll take you to Fowler tomorrow”. Fowler and Co. were one of the oldest British law firms of Calcutta. As we entered, Mr. Fowler joked, “Your husband said, it was a personal matter. I hope he hasn't been a naughty boy”. “I wish he had been”, I answered, and gave him the letter. Mr. Fowler was a small, old man with wispy hair and twinkly eyes. “Hmm, what does he mean by authorised government guides only? Doesn't he know this is a democracy where you can start any business and employ whoever you wish?” Mr. Fowler dictated a three line letter in superb English which demolished their case completely. A pyrrhic victory, I thought sadly. My days in tourism were numbered. I was wrong. Fate had other plans for me.
Changing destinies
In the meantime my son's stars were bright, he got a scholarship to Cornell through an influential alumnus. Of course, his grades had to be first class. At Cornell he met and fell in love with Louise. After he got his drama degree, he returned to Calcutta and landed a good job. He joined amateur theatre groups and produced plays in his spare time. His fiancée Louise came out and soon there was a happy wedding. They found a comfortable annexe, made a host of friends, and Louise taught in the American International School. By this time our daughter Shernaz was in her final year of school. One morning, I fell ill. A group tour had been booked for that day. All the guides were busy but someone had to replace me. I asked Shernaz. She quickly changed into a sari and left on the tour. She must have done a good job because one of her tourists, who was a geology professor, told her that if she graduated well from school and did her SAT (Scholastic Aptitude Test) equally well, she should write to him. So fate shaped her destiny also.
The writer (age 93) is a freelance contributor to national newspapers and magazines. She can be contacted at: silloo.mehta@yahoo.co.in
