Aging is a process that starts the moment we are born. Baby skin is soft, the silk-like epidermis sitting on the thick dermal cushion. As we age, the epidermis shrinks and the hard dermis becomes like jelly. Skin ages all over the body but more so when exposed to the sun. Changes caused by sun damage (photo aging) include dryness, sagging, keratoses and wrinkles.
Most wrinkles appear where sun exposure is greatest, especially the face, neck, back of the hands, and top of the forearms. Wrinkles come in two categories: fine surface lines and deep furrows. In general, wrinkle treatments are more effective for fine lines. Deeper creases may require more aggressive techniques, such as injecting fillers.
The main preventive measures include avoiding sun exposure and not smoking. Regular use of creams helps minimise the damage. After 35 years, start using a good night cream. For a cream to give those miraculous results, the absorption has to be at the time of maximum blood flow, which is at night.
The active ingredient in most anti-ageing creams is vitamin A-derived tretinoin. After using night creams daily for a year, it can be used 2-3 times a week. This causes healthy new collagen to form. Use sun protection if you are using anti-ageing creams as they make the skin sensitive to sun and can cause redness and itching. Other ingredients include anti-oxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E and Beta Carotene.
Another option is peeling. This involves the application of alpha and beta hydroxyacids (AHAs and BHAs), which are derived from vegetables and fruits, to the skin to remove the top layer. Within 24 hrs new cells take their place. Following peeling there may be slight redness but no pain. Multiple treatments at intervals of 2-3 weeks are needed to get total effect. This is safe when done by an expert but not to be done instead of facials.
Regular facials at home and at the parlour also help. Older women can go for regular facial massages to improve circulation. At home apply fresh apple and pineapple juice on clean skin. These help in tightening skin.
The fine lines that appear due to facial expressions around the eyes or forehead can be controlled by Botox, which weakens the muscles producing these actions. Botox is safe and does not have a permanent effect. If you are fine with injectables, this is safe.
Fillers comprise natural collagen and are injected in permanent creases like those in the palm or in the nasal folds. The filler lasts for six months and is absorbed by the body thereafter.
Health food
For maximum benefits, you should load up on a variety of health foods. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of foods go beyond attacking free radicals that promote health and ward off disease. Incorporate these foods and beverages in your diet chart to ensure good health and to reduce the signs of ageing:
Fish: Powerful anti-inflammatory. Eat twice weekly, especially those rich in omega-3 fatty acids. Offers a multitude of health benefits.
Fruits and vegetables: Antioxidant powerhouses. Aim for a variety of colourful produce. Enjoy at least five servings per day for maximum benefits.
Whole grains: Soluble fibre to help lower blood cholesterol levels and also phytonutrient content equal to any fruit or vegetable. Strive for at least three daily servings.
Legumes: Unsung heroes packed with nutrients similar to those found in fruits and vegetables. These have very few calories. Add them to your diet 3 to 4 times a week.
Yoghurt: All the benefits of dairy foods plus probiotics that help add healthy bacteria to the intestines. Have yoghurt with active cultures as one of your three dairy servings each day.
Nuts: Great source of B vitamins. Benefit the elastin and collagen in skin, help maintain skin structure and help keep it resilient. Small portions are advised, as nuts are high in calories.
Water: Essential for hydration. Enjoy 3-4 glasses of water in addition to other liquids and watery foods.
What causes wrinkles?
Exposure to sun especially the face, neck, back of the hands and top of the forearms
Smoking produces oxygen-free radicals, which accelerate wrinkles and ageing skin disorders, and increase risk of non-melanoma skin cancers
Air pollution depletes the amount of vitamin E, an important antioxidant, in the skin
If weight loss occurs too rapidly, the volume of fat cells that cushion the face is also decreased before chemicals in the skin can react. This not only makes a person look gaunt, but can cause the skin to sag
The writer is a Dermatologist based in New Delhi
