“I love colours!” Even without this proclamation, we have come to associate Bollywood’s favourite designer with colours, glitter and grandeur. The latter especially at a time when costuming was probably relegated low priority in movies. Manish Malhotra, who started off as a stylist in movies more than 20 years ago, is credited for giving the likes of Urmila Matondkar, Karishma Kapoor and Kajol a makeover they will forever be thankful for. In fact, we all are. Remember Bollywood of the 1990s? He has recently launched his very first flagship store in Delhi. In his own words it is his “level-headedness and hard work” that has seen him survive two decades in the industry. Having recently unveiled his newest collection — Portraits and Gloss — for the current season, Manish Malhotra talks about his success in the Indian fashion industry. Excerpts from an interview:
What is it like to be a designer in India?
Right now, I think the scene is over-crowded — too many stylists, too many bloggers and too many designers. Only the best will survive and become brands. But there is an opportunity for designers to focus on niche products. So it is both good and bad.
Aspiring designers try to emulate your kind of success…
I started when I was 23-years-old at a time when I had to introduce the concept of styling and costume design to people, especially when it was looked down upon. Also, I hadn’t studied fashion. All that I know, I learnt on the job. Today I own a brand that makes a Rs.100 crore turnover. This proves that I have stood the test of time, which is the true test for any designer — to hold strong even after 10 years. So, whatever whoever may say, they cannot deny my success.
Would it be fair to say that the fashion industry is helping traditional artisans by giving them employment and popularising their trade?
I cannot speak for everyone but I personally am for introducing a lot of traditional craft into my work. I work with NGOs, with different artisans. Take the case of Japanese designers, who took their culture and made it global. This is my way of helping revive crafts that are dying down.
What is the common misconception about Indian fashion that you come across?
Thanks to many designers, people think that the industry is tacky, frivolous and all about partying, models and waking up late. But that is not the case. I wake up at 6.30 a.m. And I do not have an attitude. People have expressed surprise at the fact that I come and speak to everybody at my store.
Your latest collections — Gloss and Portraits — are both couture bridal wear. You cater a lot to the bridal market …
Yes, I always cater to the wedding market, and I have bridal wear that is formal and semi-formal. Brides today are ready to experiment. When I first introduced blue as a bridal colour, nobody even considered it for bridal wear. But it caught on as a popular colour especially for sangeets and mehndi functions. This time my emphasis is on colours like red, silver and wine.
What are the boundaries you have drawn for yourself while designing?
I stick to the genre I enjoy the most. I don’t go crazy experimenting; I prefer reinventing within my design sensibilities. I keep in mind that I support the 650 people who work with me. I am responsible for all of them.
