Come September, it is time to welcome the asura King Mahabali back to his kingdom. In Kerala, Onam is celebrated over 10 days, beginning with Atham day in the Malayalam month of Chingam . It is believed that Mahabali begins his preparations to visit Kerala on this day. The last day is Thiruvonam , when the king returns to the netherworld.
The celebrations begin with Atthachamayam (Royal Parade on Atham Day). It is a colourful parade and showcases all aspects of Kerala culture. Onapookkalams or floral carpets decorate every home. At night the illuminations all over the State are a sight to behold. The traditional Onam sadya is elaborate and has at least 15 dishes, along with pickle and papadam, ending with payasam . Dance is an important aspect of the celebration. The Vallamkali or the Aranmula boat race is an impressive sight with more than 100 oarsmen rowing long, graceful snake boats across the Pamba.
Legend has it that Mahabali grew pompous because of the love and respect of his people. He believed that there was no one greater than him and considered himself the ruler of three worlds. Therefore, the gods decided to teach him a lesson.
Vishnu came in the guise of Vamana asking for three steps within the kingdom. Mahabali granted him his wish. With one step, Vamana measured all of the earth. In the second, he claimed heaven. There was no place for him to take the third step, and so Mahabali requested him to place his foot on his head. In doing so, Mahabali was sent to Sutala, the heaven-like underworld. As a last gift, Mahabali requested that he be allowed to visit his people once a year.
Come September, it is time to welcome King Mahabali back to his kingdom.
Vallamkali: Racing across the Pamba. Photo: Leju Kamal
Pulikkali (tiger-dance): A wild dance that mimics hunting moves to the rhythm of drums. Photo: K.K. Najeeb
Pookkalam: Intricate and colourful arrangement of flowers on the floor. Photo: Shanker Chakravarty
The celebrations begin: The Atham procession. Photo: PTI
Dance of joy: To commemorate the return of Mahabali. Photo: Reuters
Feast: Dishes galore
Theyyam: Traditional dance form.
Swinging time: A part of the festivities. Photo: The Hindu Photo LIbrary