(In this column, we track the World Music scene.)
It was an invisible stethoscope throbbing with the earth’s heartbeat. Every spec in the universe seemed metronomic to it, as if revealing the innately primordial dance that began with the beginning of creation, that of the planets revolving around the sun, the earth on its axis, the coming and going of seasons and that of every heart on its journey of yearning for love. Speaking of which, a heart-stopping blue and white Claude Monet fantasy came alive as Tunisia’s rustic duo-tonal village scape seemed drunk with the odes of Divine Love that this rhythm accompanied.
A circle of turbans oscillated back and forth, long beards prayerfully vibrated as tears meandered through their white strands, the large, goat skin Daf pounded louder, the high-pitched serenade hypnotised with a spell-binding outline of the guttural chants. “They are singing about Jesus, peace be upon him,” whispered Akh el Kerim Si Adel, my host and Tunisian scholar as the Sufi Hadhra attained crescendo.
According to him, Tunisia being Africa’s northernmost country and an important cultural destination in the Arab World, is a treasure house of stunningly diverse musical influences. “What we have been singing, playing and dancing to over the centuries, bares several influences, right from mainland Europe, Moorish Andalusia, Greece, the Roman Empire, Turkey, the Middle East, Africa and even as far as India,” he explained.
Delving into the musical traditions, of this otherwise tiny country, unveils a fascinating world of classical, folk, devotional and even modern innovations. ‘Malouf’, Tunisia’s principle classical style, is rich in intricate traditional repertoire of Arabic Maqam melodic scales. Performed in fairly large ensembles of exquisitely-dressed, highly trained musicians, Malouf also bears the influence of Arabic Spain. “The Rabaab or ‘Rabeb’ as it is called in North Africa, an ancient classical bowed instrument, was originally brought from Andalusia by the Arabs and Jews fleeing the inquisition,” explained classical icon Ustad Anis Klibi, demonstrating soulful improvisations on the country’s national instrument, often seen on many postage stamps.
At the musical instrument museum of Sidi Bou Said village, near the capital Tunis, is housed a collection of popular and even rare African instruments, the expert guide offering fine insight in simple Arabic and French. Tunisia’s other instruments include the Oud lute, the western Violin they call Kamanja, Riq (small frame drum) and Qanoon (Arabic santoor) to name a few.
Throbbing with earthy, heart rendering folkloric repertoire in refreshing contrast, Tunisia’s south and even the south-eastern Island of Jerba is where the spirit of the earth unveils its magic! High-pitched bagpipes called Mezoued (‘Zukra’ in Libya) mesmerise the listener, massive ‘tabla’ drums played with sticks, pound in harmonious accompaniment.
Another folkloric drum is the Darbouka. Unlike Middle Eastern and Egyptian versions, this clay and goat-skin goblet drum is raw and rustic, and accompanies folkloric singing, instrumentals and dancing, while many a maverick charm audiences with unconventional and enthralling solos! Special occasions such as childbirth, naming ceremonies, circumcisions, religious occasions and marriages offer ample scope to folk musicians.
In Jerba, known as ‘The Island of Tolerance and Peace’, along with Berber and other local folkloric streams, Jewish music stands as the island’s symbol of the legendary Judeo-Arab brotherhood despite the conflict in the Middle East. Apart from the music of legends such as late maestro Ya’akov Bshiri to name a few, singing and dancing form an integral part of the Pèlerinage de la Ghriba, the yearly Jewish pilgrimage to Jerba’s holy La Ghriba Synagogue.
Breathtaking acrobatics, balancing acts and heart-pounding dances accompanied by unpretentiously spirited music form a part of Jerba’s folkloric repertoire. While Tunisian popular music often beautifully embodies nuances of its classical and folk music, Arabic Belly Dance is a sensual treat to international audiences at Tunisia’s plush clubs.
