In light of the surge of renewed interest in the sari among a cross-section of women on social media platforms, the seminar on ‘Cotton saris of Tamilnadu’ complemented by a display and exhibition-sale of handloom saris convened by the C.P. Ramaswami Aiyar Foundation was a timely tribute to the creators of the ubiquitous six yards and the creative process. The event was the brainchild of Nanditha Krishna, Director of the institution and Kausalya Santhanam, curator, with the active participation of the Weavers’ Service Centre (WSC) and Co-optex.
Inaugurated by T.N. Venkatesh, Managing Director, Co-optex, the seminar began with his talk on the recent innovations implemented in the handloom sector that have benefited both weavers and buyers. To cater to the on-going demand, Chettinad saris with long Ganga-Jamuna borders and Koorainadu cotton saris whose sheen echoes that of pure silk in vibrant hues are among the newly introduced varieties, available at Co-optex showrooms and government boutiques in Chennai (‘Ashtalakshmi’ Lattice Bridge Road, Adyar), Coimbatore, Kochi and New Delhi. Each sari is accompanied by an ID card carrying a photo of the weaver, his/her name, age, years of experience and the time taken to weave each sari. This highly appreciated gesture pays tribute to the weavers, hitherto anonymous artisans, conferring long overdue recognition on for their work. Attached cards also detail the specialities of each weave.
Genuine handlooms carry the Silk Mark, Handloom Mark or the India Handloom Brand assurance. Sabitha Radhakrishna, textile expert and freelance writer, provided insights into the ‘Prime Weaves of Tamilnadu.’ Dwelling on the importance of Kanchi, the temple town, as a weaving hub where religion and the weaving craft are intertwined, she touched upon the origin of weavers from Saurashtra, the korvai technique, treatment of silk yarn and composition of zari thread, with illustrative sari samples. Once the exclusive preserve of Serfoji princesses, the cotton-tissue Kodalikaruppur weave is on the verge of extinction today despite revival attempts by the WSC. Other varieties mentioned were Kuthni, Chettinad, Amman Selai and the ‘Bleeding Madras’ fabric which triggered an export boom.
Madurai Sungudi, a languishing, labour-intensive craft with inadequate remuneration, was revived through a handful of artisans. With craft sustainability being dependent on the designer-craftsperson nexus, the instance of ace designer Sabyasachi giving a fillip to the revival, by purchasing and using several bales of Sungudi in his ensembles, was cited.
Presenting a sociological view of ‘The Weaving Communities of Tamilnadu,’ Prof. G.J. Sudhakar, CPR Centre of Indological Research, elaborated on five – Kaikolar, Sale or Senapati, Saliyan, Devanga and Patnulkarar, their distinct customs and traditions.
Devangas, for instance, engage in ritual worship of goddess Chandeswari. Their women enjoyed rights to property even before legislation was passed in this regard. Settled chiefly in and around Madurai, the Patnulkarars migrated from Gujarat, adopted the practice of wearing the sacred thread and came to be known as Saurashtra Brahmins.
Dr. S. Ananthakrishnan, A.M. Jain College, detailed the history of cotton in his lecture ‘White Gold from Tamilnadu.’ Excavated samples prove that cotton usage existed 7,000 years ago during the Neolithic age and later in civilisations across the Indus Valley, Egypt and Mexico. Ancient records confirm that cotton was an important commodity in Indo-Greek trade, with Argaru (Uraiyur) and Madurai being centres for fine calicos. Famously likened to a snake’s slough or a cloud of steam, fine-spun cottons were also traded with China, Thailand and Malaysia. The Mahabharata mentions a gift of pure muslins (agartic) from Thanjavur, sent to Yudishtira at his coronation. Tamil literary sources such as the Agananuru, Purananuru and Silappadikaram and accounts of foreign travellers contain references to the separating of cotton, yarn making and spinning.
Under British rule, India was forced to supply raw cotton and buy textiles manufactured in Britain, pushing the handloom industry into a decline. Mahatma Gandhi’s emphasis on khadi spinning and usage sparked a revival.
S. Balaji, weaver, Sivasakthi Society touched upon ‘Experiences in weaving the Dindigul Cotton Sari.’ Hailing from a paramparik weaver family, his craftsmanship spans 15 years. Earlier, producing a cotton sari would net Rs. 700 apiece. Expressing his gratitude to Co-optex and the dynamic initiatives of T.N. Venkatesh, he explained that the Society now weaves azo-free dyed, 80-count organic cottons that generate earnings of Rs.1,200 per piece.
Thanks to design inputs that combine traditional templates with contemporary appeal, there has been a three-fold increase in sales and a regular flow of commissions, resulting in a sustainable livelihood.
