The Panika weavers of Kotpad and Baster in the Odisha-Chattisgarh border, claim a spiritual connect with the great 17th century poet–philosopher-weaver, Kabir.
They are ‘Kabir Panthis’ (followers of Kabir’s philosophy) also known as ‘Kabir Ke Julahe’. In fact Panika weavers recite Kabir ‘dohas’ (couplets) as they weave for the local tribals including Murias, Gonds and Santhals, garments to be worn during rituals.
History has it that the Panika community of hereditary weavers came to the border area some hundred years ago. Gradually integrating with local tribal life, their weaves began to reflect the myths, legends, stories and nature-centric symbolism of the tribes. The tribal garment ‘pata’ or knee length drape, which they weave, is a soft, pliant fabric and reflects the ‘synchronisation’ of two cultures.
Bringing this fabric from a remote region into the contemporary framework is Pankaja Sethi, alumnus of NIFT, Delhi, social anthropologist and wandering researcher. Her quest for material, its culture and language went beyond visual patterns and inspired her to experiment with textiles worn by the Adivasis.
Says Sethi, “In 2000, when I visited the area for craft documentation, I got involved with the Panika weavers. I heard fascinating stories from them and learnt how the two cultures (tribal and Panika) blended in the material creating a new textile language.” Sethi decided to work with them and give the fabric a contemporary dimension, while staying true to its spirit.
“For the sari, I visit Kotpad village and design it using their patterns, and motifs. The saris are usually off-White kora with purple temple borders. Their textile is organic and only natural dyes are used. The dye is made from the bark of the ‘Aal’ tree roots. The process follows seasonal patterns. The yarn is first treated with a mixture of cowdung and castor oil and kneaded for 2-3 weeks continuously. The bark of the root is dried and powdered and made into a water-based solution. The yarn is then soaked into this solution and left overnight for absorption. Once it is dry, the weaving begins.”
Sethi’s oeuvre includes saris, stoles, made – ups, jackets made out of striped Adivasi towels, stylish tops featuring ‘Dongriakon’ embroidery and brass lost – wax processed buttons as well as ‘aal’ dyed tops in variegated patterns. Her collection was showcased at CCI’s Craftepreneur exhibition held in the city in September. For information, the designer can be contacted at pankaja.sethi@gmail.com (Ph: 9437500507)
