Natives of Dindigul will tell you that the region is synonymous with trusty safety locks, fragrant biryani, Sirumalai banana and jackfruit. But recently, it has notched up yet another claim to fame — organic cotton saris. The deeply entrenched local tradition of weaving Bemburg cotton has been replaced by organic cotton sari weaving. This new development springs from the initiative of Cooptex, The Tamil Nadu Handloom Weavers’ Cooperative Society.
Master sari weavers from Dindigul, N. Balamurugan and K. Ravichandran share their experiences in spearheading the change. “Initially, we were hesitant to make the switch, as we were uncertain about the sustainability. Starting out by replacing the Bemburg blend of art silk and cotton with NHDC 80s combed cotton yarn in warp and weft; we graduated to a fully organic cotton fabric in 2015, with six introductory designs.”
Says Ravi, deputy general manager (Production) “The colourfast yarn, dyed in Pollachi using azo-free dyes, is 100 per cent skin-friendly, cool, lightweight, ideal for summer wear and needs no starching. Of note, 80s combed cotton warp and weft saris usually employ 2/100s gas mercerised yarn for threadwork motifs in butta, borders and pallu, which make them heavy, whereas in organic cotton saris, we ply the 80s combed organic cotton yarn itself for the threadwork, so that the sari is kept very light and completely organic. Though the process is time consuming, the end product is rewarding.”
In what ways have weavers benefited from organic cotton? ‘Earlier, we earned Rs. 6,500 per month on average, but now we make Rs.11, 500, since our output has increased to 10-12 saris per month, except during the rains,” says Ravichandran who banks on 25 years of weaving experience. “This is a high-quality product. As we have mastered the art of maintaining the warp yarn at the required ‘full tight’ tension and we wet the gummed weft yarn in water prior to weaving, the resultant fabric is strong and durable. With rising demand and sales, there is immediate and full procurement of stocks. Our constant source of inspiration is the MD of Cooptex, Mr. Venkatesh, who does not hesitate to visit our homes to encourage and mentor us. His advice ‘ishtappattu kashtappadu’ has yielded rich dividends. Also, our Weavers’ Society membership has conferred many benefits. Under present government schemes, banks readily extend subsidised loans. Family pensions and sudden death are covered. Study material and scholarships for school children and part-funded college expenses are assured.”
For the first time, the handloom weaver’s hard work and skill has received overt recognition in the form of Weaver Cards attached to each sari. This card lists the weaver’s name and region along with his/her photograph, years of experience, the man-hours and effort taken to weave each sari.
Is there a likelihood of their children taking to weaving? “Weaving is an activity which calls for many hands. Being around home looms from toddlerhood, it is inevitable that our children imbibe the nuances of the craft. But rising costs of living had forced them to take up factory work. So, the number of looms in Nagal Nagar weavers’ colony had dwindled from 10,000 to 2000. However, if the prevailing upswing, employing 72 families, is sustained, it offers hope for the next generation to return to the profession.”
At the Thillayadi Valliyammai Cooptex showroom, Egmore, you are greeted by an artistic display of the tools of the weaver’s trade — bundles of coloured yarn unspooling from glass jars, wooden shuttles and spindles. Sifting through the organic cotton yarn, I find its butter-soft and feather-light texture fascinating. Its dye-absorptive capacity contributes to the creation of a luminous colour palette in both bright and pastel shades, paving the way for rare two-tone hues and striking contrasts. Complementing them are the revived darbar and rudraksha pettu, gorgeous annapakshi and thazahmpoo motifs, Ganga-Jamuna and temple borders. In-house designers Sivasankar and Mahalingam affirm, “Design interventions backed by suggestions from the MD have flagged off a vast range of exquisite designs. The buyer response is overwhelming and inspires us to continue innovating.”
A vibrant makeover
Venkatesh, managing director, Co-optex, talks about the initiatives to be in sync with contemporary trends.
Seeing is believing. In a little over a year and a half, the transformation of Co-optex’s image from staid to vibrantly market savvy is nothing short of stunning. While near-extinct weaves have been revived, existing traditions have received a shot in the arm through innovative yarn permutations and designs that qualify as timeless classics. Meet the man behind the makeover — managing director of Co-optex, T.N. Venkatesh, who is quick to share the credit with his team of weavers, colleagues and staff. Guided by an innate aesthetic, his hands-on involvement in the design process from loom to showroom has won the respect of professional designers. Taking stock of the organisation’s progress, he details Co-optex’s pan-Indian growth plans with the same quiet determination with which he has scripted its success story.
When you assumed office in September 2014, which areas did you first address?
The demographic profile needed urgent attention. Co-optex needed to cater to the needs of younger shoppers in and draw them into its customer base. To this end, we conducted surveys and studies of buyer preferences across different cities and compiled customer feedback.
What changes stand out in the current scenario?
In the fiercely competitive textiles sector that increasingly relies on e-commerce portals and social media, it is essential that Co-optex, a government society should be in sync with contemporary trends. So, in December 2014, our online portal www.Co-optex.com was inaugurated. Currently, the site holds the distinction of generating the highest revenue among all textile cooperative society sites. Co-optex’s tie ups with popular online portals like Flipkart and Snapdeal have boosted sales. Craftsvilla and Myntra tie ups are on the cards. On Facebook, we post details about unique or revived weaves on the Facebook forum W3 (Women Weave World) hosted by a large community of handloom enthusiasts.
What factors led to the focus on the Dindigul weaving cluster?
The Dindigul area has a set of dedicated weaver society officials committed to improving the weavers’ economic circumstances. Their cooperation was instrumental in implementing our initiatives. Also, these weavers were highly motivated by cross-learning from other weaving clusters during their visits to Chirala and Mangalagiri, which inspired fresh ideas.
About organic cotton, its qualities and advantages…
Cotton grown on fields kept free of chemical fertilisers/pesticides for three years running is termed organic. Such yarn is skin-friendly and makes the weaving process healthier in terms of reducing stress on the weaver through quicker completion time for each sari. To ensure that organic cotton is not limited to the preserve of the elite, Co-optex makes these saris available at very reasonable prices. The process of ‘organic’ certification is also under way, to enable us to cater to more buyers through exports.
What does Co-optex offer the younger generation?
Tailored mix and match kurtas for women and linen shirts for men are already on the racks. We will be introducing running material, home furnishings and linen-cotton blend saris for Diwali. NIFT and NID graduates are roped in for working with specific fabrics.
Future plans for interactive projects …
Last year, two textile trains, to Sirumugai and Chettinad were flagged off. This year, we plan five trains. These trips open up to textile aficionados, the processes, realities and toil involved in handloom weaving.
