It is a sweltering afternoon in May. And, the fishermen at the N4 beach in Kasimedu are surprised to see a battalion of boys and girls in their mid-20s dressed in blue silk shirts, veshtis and navy blue saris file in. Around them, the waves lash against the groynes that flank the sea like a giant wall. Deepan and his friends climb upon these with their tamaru , parais (drums) and sticks to deliver a high energy performance. The sounds of the resounding drums break the mid-afternoon lull in Ennore. Some visitors record the scene on their phones.
The parai artistes from Korukkupet, occasionally come to this beach to jam. “We cannot practise in peace where we live. A crowd might gather and a few would even call the police for causing public nuisance,” says 27-year-old Deepan, the head of the team.
The artistes iron their drums before a performance to make the instruments taut and resonate better. Today, they have all been kept in a file on the ground to bask in the blistering summer heat. “There are two kinds of kuchis (drum sticks); sindu kuchi , made of bamboo, and adi kuchi , made from the neem tree,” says Deepan as he tutors me to play a thakuthathakadhimi beat on the parai . I find it a little difficult to recreate the rhythm in the first go. Deepan continues, “This is just one part of paraiattam . You are also expected to dance, sing and beat the drums. A parai artiste is expected to have nalinam or grace more than anything else.”
Friends Kalaikuzhu, one of the few active paraiattam collectives in Chennai, is from North Chennai, the turf of gaana music, which has influenced its flair for rhythms. Deepan recalls it was an NGO that introduced them to the world of paraiattam . “They held workshops explaining to us about child labour, which many of us were engaged in then, and initiated us to many other rural art forms.”
A 17-year-old Deepan gathered his friends from in and around his locality, and formed Friends Kalaikuzhu. They started performing for weddings and school functions. “It helped us earn some pocket money for our college fees. One person can earn at least ₹ 500 for a performance.” Most of the team members hold degrees and some are doing their Masters in Commerce, Science and Computer Science.
Deepan says that paraiattam is often associated with funeral processions in Tamil Nadu and, hence, it is not seen as a respectable art form. However, he wants to remove this stigma. “We never perform at funerals. You are supposed to beat without any interval during the funeral procession. Many resort to alcohol to be immune to fatigue and end up as addicts,” says Deepan.
Paraiattam has given them more visibility; they have performed for television shows on Sun TV, Vijay TV and Zee Tamizh. “But, we wish the mainstream entertainment industry also remembers us on occasions other than Pongal as a token gesture to recognise village art forms,” remarks Rajan, Deepan’s brother. They have actively participated in programmes organised by the State such as Chennai Sangamam, Dalit Kalaivizha, and Kalaipanpaattuthurai. However, there has been a general lack of governmental support to local art forms; and, the programme agents also eat away half their remuneration, adds Rajan.
The parai is the ticket to freedom and identity for the women in the group. Kamali Manickam and Pradeepa say that initially, their parents did not approve of them playing the instrument in public. “But after they saw the recognition we won, they were more accepting,” says Pradeepa. Manickam says they experience a gethu (pride) when audience gives them a standing ovation, and requests them for their selfies and autographs. Deepan chips in, “The highlight of Kamali’s performance is her high-speed swirl, along with the giant drum, which she balances with a rope between her teeth.”
They have been performing at temples, schools, public gatherings and at churches. “December, January and the month of Aadi are the busy seasons. We also play as accompaniment for street theatre and mime troupes.” Their beats resonate across all religions, says Deepan. “The only God we pray to before a performance is our guru who trained us and the salangais (anklets) on our feet.”
To get in touch with Friends Kalaikuzhu, call 9551746614.