For months now, Fort Kochi has been bustling with activity. Graffiti has begun appearing on street walls overnight, art galleries are busy organising schedules. The facade of Aspinwall House will soon be buzzing. Buildings at the Dutch Warehouse wait in anticipation for artists, art lovers, musicians and tourists to stream in. Cabral Yard has been spruced up and given a fresh-faced avatar.
But step away from these places, and the six other venues that are hosting the 2016 edition of the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, and there’s still a lot to see in the city.
From the sky, Kochi is a verdant strip criss-crossed by water bodies. On the ground, things get a lot dustier and chaotic, with traffic snarls and the rising heat (yes, even in December), but it has a charm that is worth exploring.
Culturally, it is a melting pot, where Carnatic music is as appreciated as rock concerts, and stand-up comedy and Kathakali draw an equally large audience. As a travel destination, the city offers everything you need, starting with eclectic, colourful and quirky photo ops for your Instagram feed. Not to mention the culinary adventures, supplemented by art, music and history.
Now, while most people would be heading to Fort Kochi for the biennale, we suggest you cast a wider net. Take some time to visit the mainland Ernakulam; Tripunithura, where the royal family lives; Munambam, where the beaches are still nearly untouched, or Vypeen, with its colourful fishing boats.
And don’t worry about transport: buses, autorickshaws and a growing Uber fleet should help.
Morning
No matter what your plans, it’s best to get an early start. Relegate the guidebook favourites like the Chinese fishing nets or the bustling Manassery fishing village to the sidelines. Instead, get a dose of history at the two-hour long Fort Kochi Heritage Walk organised by local historian Anthony Thommen. Among other places, you will visit St. Francis Church, the Parade Ground and the Dhobi Khana, where clothes are still hand-washed as they were over half-a-century ago. (Time: 8 a.m. Contact: 94471 16702)
Breakfast brouhaha
Breakfast at Kashi Art Cafe is a must, and not just for their divine food. Being the hub of the contemporary art scene, you’ll be sure to run into some familiar faces. If you’re at the biennale to network, this is a great place to hang out. While you’re here, beat the Kochi humidity with a fresh lime soda with naruneendi (also called nannari); the little ayurvedic herb adds an interesting flavour and also cools you down considerably. If you're looking to snack, their tuna cheese melt, on fresh local bread is a great option, as are their famously-filling veggie-stuffed omelettes. Whatever you eat, leave room for dessert — their homemade chocolate cake is even better than grandma’s, but you had better order it first — they tend to run out of it when demand is high.
If your day starts in Ernakulam, and you can’t do without your morning run, head to Subhash Park. For post-run fuelling, there’s the usual South Indian fare available at BTH, omelettes at the Indian Coffee House or Kerala appam, egg roast and puttu at Unnikrishna.
But if you’re looking for something unusual, French Toast will let you indulge in your sweet as well as savoury cravings. Their peanut-butter-and-jam stuffed French Toast is less dessert and more main course. And if your sweet tooth gets tired, try the Gouda Cheese French Toast with mushrooms. Again, this isn’t for those with frail appetites. A variety of cakes and pastries, and great options for vegans are available.
Biryani fix
- M.F. Husain reportedly ate at Kayees every day whenever he was in Kochi: reason enough to try their signature biryani.
- Another favourite is Pandari’s Biryani in Pullepady. Ignore the cramped interiors and focus on the flavour and aroma of the biryani, which is made with long-grain rice.
- Malabari biryanis use the small-grain rice. Try it at Ceylon Bake House, Thakkaaram and Ali Baba & 41 Dishes.
- For Kozhikode style, it’s Paragon at Lulu Mall.
Learn
Go to Nimmy and Paul for an introduction to Kerala’s cuisine, taking a cue from several editors and food writers from across the world. They have been featured in international publications like Saveur and The New York Times and in Christine Manfield’s book, Tasting India. Learn how to make the traditional sadya. They’re busy through the year, so make sure to book a spot.
Tel: 94474 34812
Watch a 45-50 minute demonstration of Kalaripayattu and try a move or two of this martial art form at ENS Kalari, Nettoor, around eight kilometres from Ernakulam.
Time: 7.15 a.m. to 8.15 a.m.
Tel: 94470 70081
Sudakshna Thampi’s sessions are held either at her yoga studio, a sunset cruise, in a temple ground, a park by the backwater or at the comfort of your own hotel, depending on your preference. She also offers one-hour sessions on yoga therapy and chakra meditation.
Tel: 82815 25209
Spa
When in Kerala, go Ayurvedic. Get a traditional oil massage (the abhyanga) at Fort House, or head to the Ayurvedic spa at Brunton Boatyard, which offers a signature two-hour-long deep tissue massage.
Tel: 0484-3990500
Ayurville offers podikkizhi (an Ayurvedic therapy with medicinal powder), facials and shirodhara, or just a simple foot massage after wandering around the city.
Tel: 95626 55577
Tea time
At Teapot on Peter Celli Street, choose from a rich variety of teas — from Darjeeling and white silver tips to fruity green teas. Ask for their signature dish, the Indian Rarebit. And while you’re wondering what that is, occupy yourself by looking at their collection of teapots.
For a typical Kerala snack, it’s Hotel Elite on Princess Street or Fort House on the pier. Expect a lot of fried seafood, and make sure you aren’t in a hurry — orders can take up to 30 minutes to be served.
Relax
After tea, take the ferry to Vypeen and visit the Portuguese Church of Our Lady of Hope, built in 1605. This Roman Catholic church was the only one not destroyed by the Dutch when they conquered Cochin in 1663.
Pallipuram Fort, the oldest existing European fort in India, is a 45-minute drive from here. The hexagonal shape is known as ayikkotta or alikotta. Or chill at Cherai Beach before heading back to Fort Kochi.
Boutique call
Rouka by Sreejith Jeevan features contemporary clothes with a touch of tradition.
Tel: 235 8783
For the free spirit in you, try Annah Chakola’s Boho Gypsy range of jewellery — which includes real stones and leaves as pendants for a fantastically organic look.
For traditional Kerala kasavu saris: Ramachandran Handloom, Kasavukada, Hantex Showroom (this one’s near the Durbar Hall Art Gallery so pop in between viewings ) and Karalkada.
Drop into Aambal for eco-friendly, organic and sustainable designer wear.
Pop up
Visit The Nicobar Edit, one of the patrons of KMB 2016, at David Hall, Fort Kochi, for a two-month period from December 12. The Mumbai-based design studio (from the Good Earth team) lays emphasis on the physical space as a sensory experience for its customers. The pop-up shop, 10 yards in length and four in breadth, will be spread under a white tent with tropical fronds, creating a very holistic experience where the mood is one of relaxation and wanderlust. The interior is pieced together like a series of vignettes, and corners are punctuated with products designed for your home and wardrobe, inviting you to linger. French Toast will also have a pop-up cafe at Cabral Yard for the three-month duration of KMB 2016. They will serve bite-sized finger foods and three to four varieties of sandwiches, that will be changed every week. Look out for their coconut-encrusted French toast with poached pear and home-made caramel sauce. It will also serve tea, coffee and juices. “The whole idea is to serve on-the-go food, as visitors will be walking around the venues and sites,” said Ayaz Salim, proprietor of the popular cafe.
Hop on a boat
Once you’re done with your fill of art and shopping, explore beyond Fort Kochi. Hop on a speedboat at Aspinwall House jetty for memorable sunsets and more.
Sailing Club House
Under the guidance of the best instructors, enjoy the best sailing conditions in the world at Lake Vembanad. Post sailing, if you get hungry, they have a beautifully-designed cafe overlooking the lake, that serves burgers and chips.
Website: sailingclubhouse.in
Tel: 9995 7 08 888
Muziris
The heart of the historic Spice Route, the ancient world’s greatest trading centre in the East, this legendary seaport traded in everything from spices to precious stones with the Greeks, Romans and the rest of the world. Explore remnants of Buddhists, Arabs, Chinese, Jews, Romans, Portuguese, Dutch and even the British culture here. Must-visit locations are Paravur Market, Chendamangalam Synagogue, Palayam Palace and Pattanam excavation site.
Website: muzirisheritage.org
Tel: 480 280 7717
Speedboat transfers start at INR 5,500 and can be booked at silkrouteescapes.com / +91 773 600 0989
Stay
At the brand new Ayana Fort Kochi, expect bright walls and checkered floors, coupled with a rooftop pool. You can hardly tell that it is 200-year-old courthouse in an art deco avatar.
Tel: 99670 45098
For the budget travellers or those who like to make friends while on vacation, Happy Camper, a quirky and fun boutique backpackers hostel is the place to be. It’s quite popular; make bookings well in advance.
Tel: 97427 25668
A filmstar’s favourites
Don’t miss out on Rima Kallingal’s haunts
Like any Kochi local, actress Rima Kallingal prefers to head to Fort Kochi for a break, but she does have some favourite haunts in and around Ernakulam. So skip Marine Drive and that Kathakali performance — check these out instead.
EAT
The actress picks Nawras on Chittoor Road for seafood, Ojeen on Marine Drive for traditional North Malabar cuisine, and Ifthar at Thopumpady for local cuisine.
SHOP
“Experience the local, chaotic and crowded side of Cochin at Broadway,” says Rima, adding that Rouka and Aambal are other stops on her usual shopping trips.
VISIT
“Tripunithura Hill Palace (5 km from the city) is the place to experience some royal glory,” says Rima.
